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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So what started off as a basic, ‘out of the box’ build of the new Tamiya kit, it turned into something more. The kit just begged for extra detail to be added and I had to oblige. Thanks to everyone who followed along the WIP, but to highlight, Zero paints used pretty much throughout with my own paint job on it, finished with 2K diamond clear amd polished up. A few extra wires were added and the kit wires replaced for more accurate scaled equivalent. A bunch of Top Studio, Hobby Design and T2M nuts, bolts and PE heads were fitted throughout. Magnets replace the screws for the fairings and the rest were either covered up or replaced with aluminium tube.
  2. 1 point
    This is a big deal!! My FIRST post in a 'finished' section after multiple 'WIP' threads!! Build diary here
  3. 1 point
    Here you can see a project that I started 4 years ago as a group building. Whereby my construction is furthest advanced. But now I want to finish building and share it with you. The fork has a part scratch built of stainless steel tubes. The rim was spoked. What you see is the "Red Porsche Killer" http://inventorspot.com/articles/werners_4engined_red_porsche_killer_more_motors_make_mean_motorb
  4. 1 point
    Love this one! The paintjob and the extra enhancements really sets this apart mate, great job!
  5. 1 point
    Here is my version of the Lindberg color me gone 64 Dodge 330. i used C1 models wheels a scratch built subframe connectors and exhaust. Its painted in Tamiya lime green with Tamiya clear. Thanks for looking Lee
  6. 1 point
    Thanks @mueller. I spend quite a bit of time researching the exhaust. In fact, for quite a bit of it. Looking on ebay for parts gives a good insight into what the individual parts look like.
  7. 1 point
    Next video in the series. A bit of time spent figuring out the Decalcas screen and then on to fitting the final parts. https://youtu.be/54fgqBoeNR8
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  9. 1 point
    So here's the finished painted fork, the holes for the hollow axles are quite large (now 2.5 mm) Revell does not take any risk of mismatching, with according play. Play free only if you tighten the screws nice and tight. The tubes for the hollow axles are already on the way, I hope that works as well as I imagine. I want to do the same with the steering head.
  10. 1 point
    Thanks Imster . But not that we misunderstand each other. There are only parts made scratch, not the whole kit. Existing parts are improved. The kit comes from Revell, is from 2001 and was probably sold only in Germany. I'll show you some pictures of the assembly Turned Parts Rim
  11. 1 point
    Wow!!!! This looks pretty cool! How much of it is scratch made and how much is with the use of kit parts from various kits? Superb workmanship!
  12. 1 point
    Oh I like this, thanks for sharing mate
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  15. 1 point
    I finally finished this motorcycle. I used some top studio 27 details, connections, electrical connectors, chain set, and some other details. Hope you like it!
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  18. 1 point
    Another total stunner, your attention to detail is superb.
  19. 1 point
    Stunning build, I can only wonder at your level of skill mate amazing. Congratulations at your first place 👍
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  21. 1 point
    Update!!! I was in a little bit of a rush when doing the photos due to the competition deadline, so the photos were way too vivid and bright. I managed to find some time to take some new photos that are a much better representation of the actual car
  22. 1 point
    Time for a big update! Starting off with the steering wheel, the MFH supplied wheel is incorrect, the centre round section where the Lotus logo sits should be flush with the rest of the centre section. After some careful measuring I turned a little 'horn' piece to fill the gap, look closely and you can see the turned part next to the steering wheel Turned part put into position, you can now see it all sits flush Steering wheel completed, the leather part of the wheel was painted a combination of Tamiya TS-33 Dull Red and Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red, the centre section was painted yellow with the logo decal placed on top After installing the steering wheel it was time to make the big decision.... should I go for the kit supplied wheels and tyres or go with the Ebbro versions.... So here are some comparison photos. Here is the Ebbro ones Here is the MFH version Ebbro from the front corner MFH from the front corner Ebbro side on.. MFH side on.. Ebbro top view MFH top view For me it was a clear decision, Ebbro are far more accurate than the MFH. Here are the wheels ready to be installed. Also bear in mind the actual rims are aftermarket rims that are designed to replace the Ebbro Lotus 49 kit wheels, I am not sure if they are still for sale but you can contact Scale-Details to see if they are. I gotta say the quality of these aftermarket rims are superb! To finish off the wheels I added air valves and I scuffed the surfaces of the tyres with sandpaper to get rid of that shiny look they had So once the big decision about wheels was made I started to work on the transmission and starter motor. I turned the front end of the starter motor on my lathe because the MFH white metal cast part was pretty badly warped To get rid of the warping on the body of the starter motor I connected it into my dremel and sanded it down, here in this photo you can compare once the part is sanded compared to how it comes in the kit The starter motor was assembled and painted up Turned bolts were added to the starter motor clamps as well as to the body of the motor, then an oil wash was done The starter motor was then attached to the transmission housing Once the starter motor was installed it was time to mate the transmission to the engine block. I used 2 part epoxy to ensure a strong bond I also added the metal pipe that carries the electrical wiring for the starter motor, this isn't supplied in the kit and is a really obvious part that should have been included. I also drilled out holes for turned bolts on the transmission housing (you can see the holes drilled out in this photo) Once the transmission was done it was time to tackle the front wheels, brakes and suspension setup. These washers were made on my lathe as they were needed as part of the modified wheel set to ensure proper spacing The front end was bonded with 5 minute curing 2 part epoxy, this allowed me to connect everything and get it all lined up before the adhesive cured, also 2 part epoxy is significantly stronger than CA glue and is always my choice when it comes to bonding critical joints. I used a set up jig to ensure proper alignment. The fisheye on my camera kind of made the alignment look totally wrong in this photo A better photo showing the alignment Zero camber on the front Next up was the rear end of the car, here are the rear uprights mocked up I then mocked up the rear suspension arm to get an idea how it all goes together and to check alignment I'm not a fan of MFH's electroplated whitemetal parts, they were very difficult to work with Checking to see how the ride height looks Here I am checking the rear end alignment with the uprights and driveshafts in place, lots of adjustments had to be made, even in this photo you can see the left wheel is sitting forward compared to the right wheel Adjustments were made and now the rear wheels sit correctly Alignment check without the wheels After aligning the rear suspension arms it was time to check everything out with the rear suspension mocked up, Some further adjustments were made to ensure everything sat just right In preparation for putting together the rear end, I used 2 part epoxy to bond the wheel rims to the rear uprights. I also added brakes lines as per reference 0.35mm solder wire was used for the brake lines Another angle of the rear upright ready for installation The moment of truth!!! Making sure everything lines up correctly! I used 2 part epoxy to bond all the rear suspension connection points but unlike the front where I used 5 minute epoxy, the rear was bonded with 30 minute epoxy. This allowed me ample time to ensure everything was connected correctly and aligned just right. I left it like this in the alignment jig overnight And the next morning it all was set Next up was to tackle the exhaust pipes, as always I mock everything up to ensure correct fitment Mocking up the exhaust, some bending was needed to get the pipes to sit straight but I didn't go crazy with getting them perfect because the actual cars exhaust pipes were all over the place! I painted the inside of the exhaust pipe tips black The springs that hold the exhaust pipes in place at the rear of the car were very stiff, so rather than try to install them once the pipes were installed I connected them like this and then slid them over the pipes Here you can see the pipes were slid into position, be careful not to scratch the surface of the exhaust pipes as you slide them through The exhaust headers were painted white as per reference. You can also see the rest of the rear brake line plumbing which was added At this point the car is about 95% done, all that is left is to attach the exhaust tips, mount the car on a base, finish off the decals and install the windscreen Exhaust tips installed and the car was mounted to its base as well The last of the decals completed Time to tackle the windscreen! It was a double screen so the smaller one goes in first and then the bigger one covers all around the cockpit. getting these two parts to line up is extremely tricky and should not be rushed Mock up of the first part of the windscreen I used a handy tip originally suggested by David Thibodeau which is to use some extremely thin double sided tape to bond windscreens in place, so I used this technique to install the windscreens, here you can see the small bead of double sided tape I used. After the double sided tape was used I then ran a bead of future along the bottom edge of the windscreen just to make sure. Here is my hi tech method of keeping the screen in place while the bond set! Windscreen done, only if you look closely you can see the black double sided tape bead the holes were drilled to accommodate the side mirrors The cut outs for the roll bar in the windscreen needed to be measured and cut carefully, MFH do not give you any templates or help with this part, once again work slowly and carefully Thats it for now! Next update will have completed photos in glorious high resolution!!!
  23. 1 point
    Good evening, Few progress on the Red Roaring Beauty! Riveting the bathtub and the bulkhead is now done. The wooden shifter knob is clear coated and test fitting is mandatory for the engine/cockpit/body subassembly. Nothing more for today. More soon Pascal
  24. 1 point
    Hi guys Here are some pictures of the finished Kawasaki. Spring on the exhaust has been redone again. Oil pressure hose I have staged by Elastic Cord, you do not see in the Wip. The Cabel Tensioner are homemade and I forgot to paint. Balancing weights on the handlebars are turned parts . Until the next Time ......
  25. 1 point