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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The 83 is completed!!
  2. 1 point
    Thanks @andrew59it Great 👍. This is the sort of thing I’ve used: https://www.hiroboy.com/12mm_Rivets_A__TD23098--product--4840.html
  3. 1 point
    Thanks Dallas! Yes I'm so pleased and also I'm kinda keen to do another 1/20-1/24 MFH build..
  4. 1 point
    WIP can be found here: WIP Lotus 49 Nuts and Bolts: Various T2M, Top Studio and RB Motion as well as the RB Motion DFV cam cover bolt set Wiring and Cables: T2M, MFH, and MFH kit tubing Paint: Alclad Metalizers Alclad Grey Primer Tamiya TS-43, Tamiya TS-16 and Zero Paints 2K Clear
  5. 1 point
    Cheers @imster. I was pleased with the end result. I was winging it really so wasn’t sure how it was going to turn out.
  6. 1 point
    Beautifully executed. Congrats again on the win - all that hard work paid off!
  7. 1 point
    Just catching up with this @imster. You’ve done a cracking job on it and well done on the win - well deserved 👍
  8. 1 point
    For me, one of the best Lotus builds I have seen so far. Every detail has been worked out by you with much love. The complete suspension is made Suberb. Your wip was a pleasure to watch 😀 The first place is more than earned!
  9. 1 point
    OMG! OMG!OMG!! OMG!!!! 🤪🤯 Well, I gonna play 🥌 now... Pascal
  10. 1 point
    Wow ! absolutely perfect implemented Imster . Your love for the details is just wonderful.
  11. 1 point
    Time for a big update! Starting off with the steering wheel, the MFH supplied wheel is incorrect, the centre round section where the Lotus logo sits should be flush with the rest of the centre section. After some careful measuring I turned a little 'horn' piece to fill the gap, look closely and you can see the turned part next to the steering wheel Turned part put into position, you can now see it all sits flush Steering wheel completed, the leather part of the wheel was painted a combination of Tamiya TS-33 Dull Red and Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red, the centre section was painted yellow with the logo decal placed on top After installing the steering wheel it was time to make the big decision.... should I go for the kit supplied wheels and tyres or go with the Ebbro versions.... So here are some comparison photos. Here is the Ebbro ones Here is the MFH version Ebbro from the front corner MFH from the front corner Ebbro side on.. MFH side on.. Ebbro top view MFH top view For me it was a clear decision, Ebbro are far more accurate than the MFH. Here are the wheels ready to be installed. Also bear in mind the actual rims are aftermarket rims that are designed to replace the Ebbro Lotus 49 kit wheels, I am not sure if they are still for sale but you can contact Scale-Details to see if they are. I gotta say the quality of these aftermarket rims are superb! To finish off the wheels I added air valves and I scuffed the surfaces of the tyres with sandpaper to get rid of that shiny look they had So once the big decision about wheels was made I started to work on the transmission and starter motor. I turned the front end of the starter motor on my lathe because the MFH white metal cast part was pretty badly warped To get rid of the warping on the body of the starter motor I connected it into my dremel and sanded it down, here in this photo you can compare once the part is sanded compared to how it comes in the kit The starter motor was assembled and painted up Turned bolts were added to the starter motor clamps as well as to the body of the motor, then an oil wash was done The starter motor was then attached to the transmission housing Once the starter motor was installed it was time to mate the transmission to the engine block. I used 2 part epoxy to ensure a strong bond I also added the metal pipe that carries the electrical wiring for the starter motor, this isn't supplied in the kit and is a really obvious part that should have been included. I also drilled out holes for turned bolts on the transmission housing (you can see the holes drilled out in this photo) Once the transmission was done it was time to tackle the front wheels, brakes and suspension setup. These washers were made on my lathe as they were needed as part of the modified wheel set to ensure proper spacing The front end was bonded with 5 minute curing 2 part epoxy, this allowed me to connect everything and get it all lined up before the adhesive cured, also 2 part epoxy is significantly stronger than CA glue and is always my choice when it comes to bonding critical joints. I used a set up jig to ensure proper alignment. The fisheye on my camera kind of made the alignment look totally wrong in this photo A better photo showing the alignment Zero camber on the front Next up was the rear end of the car, here are the rear uprights mocked up I then mocked up the rear suspension arm to get an idea how it all goes together and to check alignment I'm not a fan of MFH's electroplated whitemetal parts, they were very difficult to work with Checking to see how the ride height looks Here I am checking the rear end alignment with the uprights and driveshafts in place, lots of adjustments had to be made, even in this photo you can see the left wheel is sitting forward compared to the right wheel Adjustments were made and now the rear wheels sit correctly Alignment check without the wheels After aligning the rear suspension arms it was time to check everything out with the rear suspension mocked up, Some further adjustments were made to ensure everything sat just right In preparation for putting together the rear end, I used 2 part epoxy to bond the wheel rims to the rear uprights. I also added brakes lines as per reference 0.35mm solder wire was used for the brake lines Another angle of the rear upright ready for installation The moment of truth!!! Making sure everything lines up correctly! I used 2 part epoxy to bond all the rear suspension connection points but unlike the front where I used 5 minute epoxy, the rear was bonded with 30 minute epoxy. This allowed me ample time to ensure everything was connected correctly and aligned just right. I left it like this in the alignment jig overnight And the next morning it all was set Next up was to tackle the exhaust pipes, as always I mock everything up to ensure correct fitment Mocking up the exhaust, some bending was needed to get the pipes to sit straight but I didn't go crazy with getting them perfect because the actual cars exhaust pipes were all over the place! I painted the inside of the exhaust pipe tips black The springs that hold the exhaust pipes in place at the rear of the car were very stiff, so rather than try to install them once the pipes were installed I connected them like this and then slid them over the pipes Here you can see the pipes were slid into position, be careful not to scratch the surface of the exhaust pipes as you slide them through The exhaust headers were painted white as per reference. You can also see the rest of the rear brake line plumbing which was added At this point the car is about 95% done, all that is left is to attach the exhaust tips, mount the car on a base, finish off the decals and install the windscreen Exhaust tips installed and the car was mounted to its base as well The last of the decals completed Time to tackle the windscreen! It was a double screen so the smaller one goes in first and then the bigger one covers all around the cockpit. getting these two parts to line up is extremely tricky and should not be rushed Mock up of the first part of the windscreen I used a handy tip originally suggested by David Thibodeau which is to use some extremely thin double sided tape to bond windscreens in place, so I used this technique to install the windscreens, here you can see the small bead of double sided tape I used. After the double sided tape was used I then ran a bead of future along the bottom edge of the windscreen just to make sure. Here is my hi tech method of keeping the screen in place while the bond set! Windscreen done, only if you look closely you can see the black double sided tape bead the holes were drilled to accommodate the side mirrors The cut outs for the roll bar in the windscreen needed to be measured and cut carefully, MFH do not give you any templates or help with this part, once again work slowly and carefully Thats it for now! Next update will have completed photos in glorious high resolution!!!
  12. 1 point
    🤩🤯🤤... Pascal.
  13. 1 point
    Big steps forward Imster. Everything worked perfectly looks absolutely great! Ha! For rivets, I also prefer Masterclub. 😀
  14. 1 point
    1/20 Lotus 49: it’s finally starting to look like a car 😊 Engine completed, lots of additional wiring and details Front end completed, plumbing added and some modifications made Engine done, MFH supplied the intake trumpet baskets in gold but reference shows it as silver so they were painted Suspension components, I want to add some rake to the car and also have it sit lower so I compressed the spring and glued the shaft down to the required height I used two part epoxy to to attach the front end to the chassis, I clamped it up and left it overnight to set Front end, I added all the plumbing based on reference Front end, I used a real rubber cord to emulate the bungie cord on the front of the Aluminum tank, I also turned the cap at the top with my lathe Top down view of the front end, rivets were all installed by me and not included in the kit Mock up with the engine in position, all lining up nicely. I will be displaying the car with the nosecone removed but once built you will also be able to put the nosecone back on
  15. 1 point
    Next update! Between the intake trumpets sits an electrical box, I assume it is linked to the distributor and other electrical parts. When I looked at the kit part I saw that it was poorly casted and would be very difficult to paint and get a good result, so I decided to modify the part and also add lots of wiring to it. This is how the part started, as you can see the connectors and the plug cap are all one piece. To get a good result it’s necessary to cut off the plug cap and connectors and scratchbuild them So starting with cutting off the distributor cap You can see how rough and poorly casted the surface is The surface was filed and wet sanded flat to accomodate the modified parts I made the connectors out of styrene (0.5mm thick) The new distributor cap was turned on my lathe Here it is all complete! I’m really annoyed with myself for not taking photos of all the scratchbuild parts before they were attached.... Sometimes I get on a roll and don’t think to stop and take photos! The small connector wires are 0.1mm painted with a marker, and the larger yellow wire is 0.4mm thick. All that is left to do is to polish the box surfaces and its ready for installation! Next on the task list was to work on the engine. Lots of enhancements were undertaken including cam covers were enhanced with turned bolts, engine block was painted and given an oil wash, the fuel metering unit was completed and plumbed in, distributor cables installed. Here is an example of the importance of washes and shading, this is a photo of the engine block with just paint on it (TS-30) Here is the same part after an oil wash, notice how the details of the engine stand out more, it may not seem much but once the model is completed it makes it all look much more realistic Here's a side by side comparison Added plumbing from the mechanical fuel pump through the filter and into the engine A little exploded view of some of the engine parts before they were cleaned up and painted/modified Cam covers, here you can see I’ve already cut off the moulded in bolts and drilled my holes Paint on, and then I scraped off the paint to show the FORD logo Cam cover complete, the bolts were given a darker colour by dipping them in blackening solution Cam covers installed Another close up of the cam covers, I did a pin wash on the bolt heads, not instantly noticeable but the difference is there Fuel metering unit complete, painted and plumbing ready Fuel metering unit installed Distributor cabling, the wires were installed as per the firing order on the 1:1 car Distributor cabling complete, I wrapped the wires to recreate the tape they used to keep the cables tidy Side view showing the various pumps on the side of the engine as well as the breathing tubes that run from the cam cover down. These tubes were only present on the early DFV engines as there were some engine breathing difficulties in the early days And here is the result, electrical box installed, engine ready for the fuel lines to be installed, I've photographed it next to a tamiya paint bottle to give an idea of the scale of the parts More updates coming soon!
  16. 1 point
    Stunning, Awesome... Pascal
  17. 1 point
    Great work as always @imster
  18. 1 point
    Few photos of where I’m at with this. Wheel was masked off to replicate a ‘rim sticker’ to make it a bit different to all the others being built. Lots of various PE washers used to finish it all off. Swing arm was painted with Alclad polished Aluminium and everything else was a range of Zero Paints. Scale Motorsport CF decals were used on the rear hugger, chain guides and front sprocket cover. All cleared with Zero paints 2k diamond. T2M braided line was ran and pinned fown as per my reference photos Rear disk was scuffed up to look used. An RB Motion banjo fitting finished the caliper off Rear chain was painted silver, then a black oil wash applied and then the pins picked out with a fine brush and silver paint. Side stand was modified to not use any screws. Pin to push it down and the spring where both scratch built.
  19. 1 point
    Hi guys Here are some pictures of the finished Kawasaki. Spring on the exhaust has been redone again. Oil pressure hose I have staged by Elastic Cord, you do not see in the Wip. The Cabel Tensioner are homemade and I forgot to paint. Balancing weights on the handlebars are turned parts . Until the next Time ......
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