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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/19/2016 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Aqui foi a minha primeira experiência com um carro de F1, participei de um concurso aqui no Brasil entre amigos de modelos, onde o tema seria F1, gostei muito e espero que você também goste. Sandro
  2. 4 points
    Hello friends , I made this model to hum Event Participate In Brazil , where the theme was Porsche , so I decided to make this small tribute to this great rider , VR46 . Sandro
  3. 4 points
    I feel like I've been slacking a bit with the updates on this, but I've not really had much to show. I've painted the wheels and applied the rim decals. I also got the fairings painted and decaled, and then all of it clear coated with Zero 2k clear. Here are the fairings. I will try and get some photos up of where I'm at with the rest of it soon.
  4. 3 points
    WIP can be found here: Honda NSR500 '84 Detail Up Sets Used: Hobby Design Detail Up Set Top Studio Clutch Set Top Studio Steering Damper Top Studio Chain Set Decals: Tamiya Kit Decals Tabu Option Decal (for the Michelin logo on the rear swingarm) Nuts and Bolts: Various T2M, Top Studio and RB Motion Wiring and Cables: T2M, MFH, Tamiya Kit Tubing and Sakatsu Solder Wire Paint: Alclad Metalizers (Frame, and Components) Tamiya Semi Gloss Black TS-29 Decanted (Engine, Front Uprights, Wheel Rims) Alclad Grey Primer Zero Paints Honda NSR500 '84 Red and White (Cowlings) Tamiya TS15 Blue (Cowlings) Zero Paints 2K Clear
  5. 3 points
    Outro carro finalizado, desta vez para o Ford GT 1966 Fujimi, arruela usada nos bancos, cerca de 250 aproximadamente e cintos de segurança, e outros pequenos detalhes em PE. Sandro
  6. 3 points
    These were a collaboration project with Peter Wingfield from Scale Auto Art. I built these in about 3 weeks. It was a daunting task and I was up many late nights. The kit needs a lot of work to be a presentable model. The roof is molded separately so it aids in painting the complicated paint scheme. Trouble is the seams where the roof glues to the quarters has to be eliminated AFTER it is painted! I used epoxy putty to blend the seams and after careful sanding I blended the red back in. Once in clear the seams were eliminated. Once the car is done it does represent the 1:1 quite well. I did two of them at one time this is one of the two I built. Thanks!!
  7. 3 points
    Outra Ducati terminou, faltava as fotos. Neste modelo, usei os detalhes do Top Studio, os garfos de tamiya e os exaustos do conjunto de detalhes Hobby Design. Sandro
  8. 3 points
    Hi folks just finished my 3rd bike, overall this is a great kit and goes together very well, however the decals can only be described as a nightmare. Anyway here is the details of the kit and all the bits and bobs added on. Kit - 1/12 Tamiya Honda RC213V Repsol Marc Marquez Exterior Paint - Zero Paints Honda Repsol Paint kit, and 1K Pre-Mixed Clear Lacquer Frame, Engine etc Paint - Tamiya Acrylic, Vallejo Model Air, and Vallejo Metal Color Detail Parts - Blue-Stuff "Dani Pedrosa Brno GP" decals and resin, Tamiya Front Fork Detail-Up kit, Studio27 PE kit (rubbish kit, only a couple of pieces used), Top Studio 5mm Exhaust Springs, Top Studio Hex Axle Nuts, Top Studio Assorted Detail Kit, Carbon Decal sheets from Scale Motorsport, TBD Decals Tyre Markings, Top Studio Exhaust Sensor, Top Studio Shift Linkage, and Top Studio Foot Rests. Anyway thanks for looking, I hope you like it Again thanks for looking cheers
  9. 3 points
    Here my Ducati Panigale Senna, was used to define the detail of the Top Studio, the Tamiya forks, and the windshield and vacumform of the Decalcas Sandro
  10. 3 points
    Well here I present you my finished (almost...a build is never finished I don't think!!!hahaha) tamiya scott redding marc vds honda rc213v build for the honda group build...not the best pictures I agree but when the weather is a bit nicer I hope to take some better ones!!! Right so it started out as a tamiya marc marquez on da rc213v kit and well there wasn't a hope in hell I was going to do a #93 bike!!!hahaha Right so the important stuff...zero paints marc vds honda rc213v paint set was used for the bodywork and wheels...zero paints aluminium for the frame and swingarm...various shades and made up colours to do the small stuff using a hairy stick and a variety of humbrol and tamiya acrylic paint's!!! The tamiya detail up fork kit was used as I always do on my builds if at all possible!!! Tyre decals are by tb decals (bought off ebay!!!) Decals are designed by pitwall and printed by cartographso very good quality!!!I used alclad translucent blue on the exhausts and tamiya weathering set d and well I suppose that's about it!!! Hope you like her...
  11. 3 points
    Thanks guys - couldn't resist a quick mock-up this afternoon.
  12. 3 points
    Finally getting around to posting something!! This is the Yamaha M1 Factory colors Edwards bike I built with the Top Studio M1 Detail kit. It was a blast building this one. A bit tedious at times but well worth it! Rundown of parts used. Top Studio 2005 Detail up kit Various Photo etch bolts and nuts Tamiya and Alclad paints. I made the display base from a picture frame with a piece of carbon fiber vinyl as the base. I thoroughly enjoyed this build and will do more of them in the future in this way with the bike naked.
  13. 3 points
    Sorry for the late reply Imster, I have been mostly focussing on the NSR lately. It's a typical revell kit. Cheap white plastic (not sure if it's styrene) soft detail in certain areas, but very good decals. They go on without any fuss, they don't tear and they take micro set and sol without any problem. Good value for money if you're looking for a no fuss build. Don't expect Tamiya quality, but then again it costs almost half of a decent Tamiya kit. I've made some progress with the chassis but honestly this one will never win any prizes. The exterior has been painted with the appropriate zero paints C5-R blue and the decals have all been applied. I'm going to wait with clearcoating it untill I can combine it with the NSR and another small kit I'm working on.
  14. 3 points
    This is just a progress album to show you all at what stage I'm currently at during this build, I'm thoroughly enjoying it, I've made a matching rider which is visible in one or two photos, there are a few mods I've done during this build such as pe chain and pe radiator mesh aftermarket nsr500 yasuni end cans and exhaust springs. Still lots of work to do such as all the decals on the front fairing and clear coating it all when done.
  15. 3 points
    This is my first Automotive build. Tamiya kit, HobbyDesign PE set, Tamiya CF decal set, and some wiring of my own.. The only issue I had was the HD brake calipers did not fit comfortably in the Tamiya wheels, and the wheels had to be turned on the lathe. Otherwise, it was a very enjoyable 60-day build.. Enjoy Marco
  16. 2 points
    Finally got this one finished up. Thanks to those who followed along and participated in our first group build on here. It's not my greatest build and I'm not overly happy with it as I had a few difficulties along the way. Overall, it doesn't look too bad once it's all together. Thanks for looking.
  17. 2 points
    Cheers guys much appreciated. On another note. I was asked in another forum if I came up against any problems with the kit and how I got around them. Here's what I suggested. There was a number of things that I had to remedy with the kit. First up on instruction 6, part A5 is supposed to be painted red, it's not red on the real car, this part is black all over. On instruction 22 don't fit part A16 & A 17 at this stage. See my instruction of the rear clamp part A11. Also the tabs at the bottom of the windscreen required a bit of fettling. When painting I masked off the area where the windscreen sits, that way it sits level. On instruction 27-29 (painting the doors) try and mask off the catch which allows the door to stay up in the open position. If paint gets on the catch or surface where it sits. The slightest knock shuts the door, it's a pain. Other than that the doors shut fine. On instruction 35 which covers the fitment of the rear area, don't glue this in just slide it in at this point. This is all to do with the fitment of the rear clam shell (Part A11). All I did after everything was fitted up, was to run a bead of glue in the inner arch after everything was fitted up. For the rear clam shell to sit properly, I had to do a number of things as follows. 1. The clam shell doesn't fit that well over the rear lights. What I did here was file some of the surface of the rear clam away where it touched the top of the lights but not much but just a little bit. 2. If you go by the instruction 22 you should fit the lower radiator cover panels, one either side. Parts A16 & A17. Leave these off till the end of the build. 3. The clam doesn't fit over the fuel cap C13, trim the indent off the back of it then put it on, it will fit fine then. 4. Attach the rear clam shell and close it. Next line up the sides of the rear panel and glue the part where it attaches in the inner arches, that's enough to hold it in position. 5. Make sure the doors close, they should as they didn't cause me any issues. 6. With the doors and rear clam shut, offer up parts A16 & A17 lining them up with the other panels. I found that the drivers side would have been fine if I had fitted it earlier, however the passenger side if fitted earlier it would have caused problems. Thats about it. I hope that's easy enough to understand. Cheers David
  18. 2 points
    Maximum - Imster is correct about the 97%-98% ETOH (Alcohol) - don't buy 70% "Rubbing Alcohol" it is NOT strong enough. As for the paint issue - there's something else going on there - I have painted Zero paints on top of Tamiya TS and AS paints without issues many times - but I always use Tamiya fine white primer - The Tamiya stuff is all synthetic lacquers - AlClad is is usually enamel based, but I'm not sure of their primers because I do not use AlClad primers - I do know you cannot put lacquers on top on enamels - that causes a chemical reaction between the solvents. The order of applications for paints are lacquers - enamels - urethanes - acrylics - which I learned painting 1:1 real cars and motorcycles for many years. In Addition you cannot put a single stage lacquer based clear on top of enamels - urethanes - acrylics without asking for chemical reaction issues - you can use 2 part urethane clears, but you must wear a respirator and use a spray booth with extractor fan and vent the VOCs - 2-part urethane clears basically use super glue aka CA-Zap as the hardener and you do NOT want that in your lungs - COPD is a horrible way to die for this great hobby - the alternative is a single stage "Acrylic" clear that can go on top of all paints, but you will want to do a test on an unused decal to make sure the decals don't react or melt with the clear you apply. I always use 2-part aka 2-pack urethane clears with my respirator and my little paint booth and have no problems spraying on top of other paints provided the lacquer - enamel - urethane - acrylic sequence is followed - when spraying 2-part urethane clear on top of decals you want to apply a couple of really light "tack" coats first before you apply the wet "flow" coat to ensure that the solvents in the clear do NOT attack the decals. When 2-part urethane clears dry they can generate heat that can "melt" the decals if too thick on a coat is first applied. Hope this painting advise is helpful to you Maximum. Cheers John
  19. 2 points
    Hi, Just completed the Hasegawa YZR500 in Lucky Strike Roberts colours from the 1989 season. This one the mount of Kevin Magee (Magoo). Impressive kit and will probably try a Sarron version in the future. Only aftermarket bought for the build the Decalpool Lucky Strike sheet, but used plenty of PE, bolts and other bits I had to hand. Red parts of the livery sprayed with a custom mix and 2k clear finish, not polished yet. Great kit although I found the fairing a little tight so might be worth a dry fit before painting if you are going to attempt this one, other than that some great crisp moldings. Cheers Doc
  20. 2 points
    So my next foray into the glories of late 80's 500 GP machines is the Yamaha YZR500 in Lucky Strike colours from Hasegawa. This one I hope will be a more relaxing build than the struggle I had with the Pepsi Suzuki previously. Only aftermarket bought in will be the tabac decal sheet from DecalPool, although this sheet is already crinkled and not even opened it yet! Most of the decals I will use from the superb kit Cartograf decal sheet and only use the tabacco sponsors from the DP sheet. I'm building this one as the mount of the Aussie Kevin Magee from the '89 season. Drafted into the Roberts team to pair up with Rainey after the bust up and subsequent sacking of Randy Mamola early in '88. Magee shone from the few wildcard outings in 1987 taking 3rd in Portugal and opening the door to his full time seat in GP racing and things looked even better taking his maiden win at his very first race as a full time GP rider at Jarama. Although always a fast rider, injury and bad luck plagued his career and never showed his true potential in my view. The Build.... My first Hasegawa bike kit and I have to say the detail is good and crisp. I started the build a few weeks ago and so far got some sub assemblies together including the engine:- Still have some wiring to add and exhaust springs but will wait until it's mounted to add these. Frame: Instructions call for the frame to be closed around the engine but I've dry fitted and hope I can mount this afterwards, makes painting a damn site easier! Bodywork Tank is also done but this has been filled and primed ready for topcoat. Exhaust These have been primed and then Alclad white aluminium added but I do want these to look right. I have seen many different modellers try to simulate the welds on the 2 stroke cans and none seem to look right to my eye. Different bikes from that era seem to show many finishes and wear for exhaust so I have to get some detail shots and try and simulate. I think it will take more than simply thin strips of masking and heat staining, As an example the Lawson 88 Yam shows a messy finish although the lucky strike yamaha seemed much darker in appearance. Will keep you posted but thought I would show the progress so far. Cheers Doc
  21. 2 points
    Well I got around to masking and painting the tank/seat unit for this build yesterday...got the white a bit more white than orange so I was happy and left it at that so I started decalling up yesterday... Then this morning I got up and finished a few bits and pieces and fitted the bodywork...considering the troubles I've had with paint on this 1 I'm quite happy with the finished item... As always I've used zero paints through an air brush for the bodywork,frame and wheels...humbrol and tamiya acrylic paints with hairy stick for the more detailed and smaller stuff...zero gloss black then alclad chrome and finally tamiya weathering set d to finish the exhausts off!!! Decals are luca cadalora 1991 rothman's honda by decal pool!!! Now that's 3 of the 4 I'm building complete... Now that's it for tamiya honda nsr250's for the time being...I have a tamiya honda rc213v Scott redding marc vds build to be cracking on with!!! Ade
  22. 2 points
    Thanks guys! @Antonio Geometer these are the wheels coming from the Minichamps 998RS, but since that bike gets the 10 spoke wheels, I found these nice for the 916 I haven't been on the forum for a couple of days but there are already some great new creatures on it, good job guys! Body parts still need to get sanded and polished, but since I've decided to finish the Tamiya 916 first rather than the 998, the parts coming together pretty quick now! I've added some nice MFH details to the engine and swingarm, and did a lot of dry fitting because of the differences between the stock rear wheel and the one I gonna use. The stock brake discs on the 916 have never been my favorites, so I've fitted some nice ceramic discs coming from an '99 NSR500, I know that there have never been any 916 fitted with carbon discs but it just looks nice Stock clutch was a closet one, but IMHO every Ducati with a dry clutch (all models except the Panigale) should have a nice opened race clutch, so this one does have it too Now it's time to put the frame around engine and swingarm and start to wire everything, as reference I just look at my own Ducati, it's 13 years newer than the 916 but a wire is a wire Hope you like it!
  23. 2 points
    On the home stretch with this one! Next up I masked and painting the livery, not a fun job at all and fairly complicated! Im glad there are plenty of reference pictures to ensure the masking lines were correct Masking tape removed! I used Zero paints for the colours, great paints to work with if you use airbrush for your painting. The zero system begins with a white coat across all of the bodywork then masking and painting the orange (building the orange intesity up with layers), and finally green, after that Tamiya TS-29 semi-gloss black and Alclad Aluminum was used. The orange was tricky to get right and you also have to be patient as it takes a fair few coats to get the orange depth right, the green in contrast was fairly straightforward in comparison. Next I began the tedious and crucial task of putting on the decals, I used a mixture of the Tamiya kit decals and the aftermarket ones as the Tamiya decals were much sharper and easier to work with I then got excited and decided to put it all together for a quick mock up! So far so good I think!
  24. 2 points
    Thanks all for your kind comments! I managed to get a few decent photos to show the detail work, I also received Paul's ( @F1modlz ) professional photo set for this car and I gotta say its amazing how much more information and detail I can see already! If you have any intention of building this kit whether you will be doing a full detailed build or a basic oob build you should get this CD! It shows colours perfectly for oob builds and for the mental people like me who like to get lots of details. Its only £10 and with the way the British currency is at the moment its a bargain! Anyways on with the photos, still a fair bit more wiring and details to add to the engine before I begine adding more kit parts. Also after looking at Paul's pics I can see that the tube the runs from the top of the engine head on the left hand side and into the transmission is actually a solid bar rather than flexible tube so I will be addressing that issue in due time. Sorry about the dusty pics! About halfway through I realised about the dust I also managed to get the front brakes completed. Once again in light of Paul's pics there will be a little more detail added Hope you guys like
  25. 2 points
    I managed to make a start on the engine. My main goal was to try to get as close to authentic with the colour of the transmission. I went with a custom mix of some alclad metalizers and on the first try the brown was way too light as you can see here So after getting some advice from Paul (F1modlz) I sprayed the brown with Tamiya Smoke (X-19) which helped to tone down the brown. I then applied an oil wash to the whole engine piece which helped to further lessen the brownish colour. I have yet to see definitive pictures of exactly what the colour looks like on the real car so I hope that my efforts are close enough or spot on (fingers crossed!). Speaking of reference pictures, I have had such a hard time getting good quality pics of the details of this engine etc but I should be sorted in a few days time when my mum comes from the UK to visit me! She is bringing with her the definitive reference pictures for the FW14b, they are produced by our very own Paul (F1modlz) and I cannot wait to get them and see how my efforts compare to the real thing! If anyone is interested Paul also has a wesbite dedicated to modelling here: https://f1modlz.com/ You can also check out his awesome 1/20 MP4/4 build and a few other projects he is working on! Back to the build, I apologise for the poor pics, all off my iPhone but I will get some proper shots done soon. I started adding some of the extra plumbing and wiring to the engine, I also added bolts too but only at places where you will see them. Its pointless wasting turned bolts on parts which will be totally covered up and not to mention expensive as well! Here is some of the PE from the Thunder Valley set attached to the engine, the instructions on the set aren't great and you have to work out a lot of the PE and where they go which is pretty time consuming. You can also still see how vibrant the brown was as this is before I reworked it all I then began making some extra parts like the plugs that connect into the top of the engine plates. I just used some styrene, 1 piece was strip styrene at the top and underneath a thicker block of styrene in order to drill through it and attach the wiring to it. A little test to show fitment Once I was happy with the plugs, I proceeded to CF the part. I thought quite a bit about what size CF to use and I noticed on all my reference pics that the CF is a very small weave rather than the larger sizes I tend to see when people build this kit. I think I got the scale and size of it right but you guys be the judge of that Once that was complete I started putting the engine together, you can see in these pics the darker shade of brown, let me know your thoughts on the colour please.. Thats it for the time being, next update will be some addition of details to the sides of the transmission and I will also be doing the TVF1 brake sets.