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  2. First of all I wish you all a Happy New Year And many thanks Andrew Honestly, I don't really know anymore. But I mean, I tried it first with the decals but then painted white because the lime green shone through under the white decals. On the KR 1000 I have painted, I have also made photos of.
  3. What a great job...!!! My compliments.... the white is decals or paint ? It's so perfect....
  4. Yes, exactly which you can buff. So on it goes, painted and decals on it. Glossy clear lacquer Then still a small stand for the fairing . The stand is a fantasy product I have no idea if there was such a thing. So now I run out of pictures . Still the fork the last time with BMF after that I started to take steel tubes . Details of the exhaust . The springs are made of coiled styrene, you know, make hot and pull in the length. Cabel Simon here you can see a little bit of the cables. If you decide to build I can also provide you with pictures. T
  5. Thank you for the info I should have it.... an old bottle..... are the ones you can buff?
  6. Thank you Andrew The paint is from Model Masters (Testors) Metalizer Alu . Unfortunately, the color is no longer available for purchase. Metalizer, by the way, was also used on the exhaust Stainless Steel and Gunmetal . So Simon now we come to your question about the exhaust . Very simple, the seams are made of masking tape. you have to find the right thickness for you. There are also different widths and you can then choose for yourself what suits you. Here are the glued on. What I have done in addition is with slow cyanoacrylate glue and a toothpick over the tape and the e
  7. Wow! The tank seems of real metal.... Which paint did you use? Nice work overall....
  8. The cladding has been prepared so far for priming . And primed . The tank showed itself the most recalcitrant. Only after several passes it was acceptable. And as you can see I split the front fairing into two parts........ a very stupid idea . Here is a picture before priming . The tank then finished painted . The surface of the paint layer was still lightly treated with 3M . Until soon :)
  9. Next are the tires and rims. central shock absorber Rear swingarm incl rims/tires and Chain Side parts painted and aged And assembled Simon here you can see well how I have laid the carburetor cables until soon
  10. Then we continue with the frame ..... Filled ,glued and painted Motor cooler installed in frame and first cables laid . Fork dechromed repainted, mounted and attached to frame Incl. Chain And Brakes Until soon :)
  11. Ok John and Simon, then I will start a short wip . Tamiya's KR500 is quite an old kit (1984). Many details are not as accurate as today's models, there was also only a PE kit from Acustion. But it is a really nice bike . The tank frame construction alone makes it something special. The exhaust must still be filled inside here Here I had still used modeling filler, today I use 2k filler or since recently a good 1K filler from Bindulin Sorry for my mess😁 Engine and rear suspension etc. Cylinder head bolts I would replace today with Masterclub bolts ,just looks better . E
  12. Mueller - Yes please - start a WIP for this build even if it is a short one Cheers John
  13. Conversion is progressing nicely, I like it very much. The anodized carburetor tubes and the new tire choice I also find well taken .
  14. Thanks John .πŸ˜€ Hi Simon I have searched and still get a few pictures for a WIP together. If they still have interest I will start a short WIP and hope to answer their questions there. Still have a few pictures with details I can provide them please by Messages
  15. Wow Mueller - Excellent work. Beautifully done and nice photos Cheers John
  16. Peter and the rest - you can save a lot of money if you buy the 2K stuff directly from an auto paints distributor or retailer - You can get a liter of clear and a 1/2 liter or 1/4 liter of catalyzer "hardener" depending on the mixing ratio and a liter of reducer "thinner" for about $50 and that will last you a life time of models - just keep the stuff in the metal containers in the fridge - heat and sunlight will cause the 2K clear and the catalyst "hardener" to cure prematurely. If you store those two items in the refrigerator they will last indefinitely - I have 2K stuff if the fridge still
  17. Mueller and the rest of the builders on the forum - this is the detergent that I use to clean the model parts and sprues with before I apply the primer - I mix a teaspoonful of the white powder granules in a liter of distilled water and dissolve the granules thoroughly before using - then I give the parts and sprues a scrub with a tooth brush and the soap solution - rinse with more distilled water only and dry with a clean cotton cloth. Note the clothes washing powder granules are "white" only - not a mix of colored granules - You do NOT want a clothes powder detergent that has fabric softene
  18. Got the GPZ back on its wheels. Still quite a bit to do but I'm happy with the progress
  19. Oh sorry, I completely overlooked your entry. I'm looking times if I still have a few pictures of the assembly. And will try to answer your questions satisfactorily.πŸ˜€
  20. Ok, for the first time in a long time I'm going to "park" this build. I have no replacement decals to correct the clear coat issue - and I have found myself just avoiding the build. So - it's all packed up. Not completely out of sight, but out of mind for a while. I'm going to move on to an older kit.........
  21. Good evening, Thank you very much Mueller The assembly continues with a painting session. Titanium white then Lotus yellow. I photocopied the decal sheet onto a Kabuki Tamiya mask sheet. The copy of the yellow decals is cut and then used to mask the yellow. Then, British Racing Green and unmask. The engine will be able to be equipped with its filter. Seam lines removed. More soon. Pascal
  22. I would also find that interesting, you never stop learning. Although I had with my method also for a long time no more craters in the paint. I use but also no Zeros but Standox or Mipa paints .
  23. Hey John, in Victoria, we have just come out of lockdown in the last month (after 120 days of not being able to go further than 5 kilometres from home). We've now not had an infection for over 40 days. I've used Gravity Spain. Will give the Zero a go when I can. There's also a local product for SMS which may be easier to get. https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/ultra-clear-coat-2k?_pos=1&_sid=015bd24c4&_ss=r
  24. Griffo - you are using the "Gravity" paints 2K clear - correct?? Is it the "Gravity Paints" in Europe or the blokes in the USA?? - I haven't heard from the USA guy in a long time now. There was a split between the two and there were some bad words said between the two about their business practices on some of the model forums. I'm not sure what "brand" manufacturer the gravity paints use for their 2K clears. I use the Zero paints 2K clear that I you can get from Hiroboy UK - but I get them from their USA distributor when actually purchasing the paints - takes longer to get a
  25. Again absolutely worth seeing Pascal . Let you resurrect but again a little motorsport history. The BRM was unfortunately not a successful engine. As a model he makes with you but a superbe figure. I look forward to further progress.πŸ˜€
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