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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hi John, thanks 😊 There are still small details I haven't finished yet, like the exhaust pipe hang to the rear, the wirings for sensors of exhaust pipe, fluid reservoirs Ah yeah, I would think the same on displayed it as being naked. But have no idea how to make a good stand. Do you have any references or instructions? That would be great! I have several in my stack. Maybe Ninja ZX-RR? I built Honda, Yamaha. Maybe a try with Kawasaki
  3. Griffo - the photos are fine. - at least you post lots of them. Looks like you are coming along well with the build. Paint repair to the bodywork looks good - hope that you don't have issues again. Cheers John
  4. Wow Thanh - really looks great excellent work with all of the wiring and small resin electric boxes. Did you plan to make a stand for the bodywork so that the bike can be seen naked? it would be a shame to cover up all that detail work. Have you an idea on what you will build next? Cheers John
  5. Last week
  6. Spent some times to finish some wiring on the speedometer and electric boxes. Also the wirings from tank/airbox. I had now the studio booth. It’s nice to shoot photos with it. 😇
  7. Not much progress this week. I have resprayed the belly pan and side fairings, this time in decanted Tamiya TS-26 pure white. I'm interested to see if this makes a difference. I'm going to try masking the circle and paint red as I did before, with more care when masking. If I stuff it up again, I'll go with John's suggestion to spray the red circle first, then white (I have decanted some Tamiya white primer so I'm prepared!). I have base coated the frame and swing arm in gloss black ready for Mr Color Super Fine Silver. Other than that, I have spent a bleak, wet, cold and windy Melbourne Sunday afternoon cleaning up parts ready for painting over an isolated Easter 4 day weekend. I commented in my first post I didn't think the fit of this kit would be up to Tamiya standard. I retract that comment completely. The fit of parts to date has been superb. Especially the expansion chambers which went together with next to no gaps. The plastic is a little harder than Tamiya's, but when gluing using Tamiya extra thin, if you press, you get a nice line of melted plastic which seals the join - making sanding and seam clean up a breeze. Oh, and I put the engine together. Still needs details picked out and a wash or two, but mostly complete. (sorry my photo skills suck - must work on that!)
  8. Hi John, nothing much. Just a little wirings work and electric boxes preparation.
  9. Hi Griffo - any new updates? Any luck with the circles? John
  10. Hi, Thanks a lot. The last 2 days were pretty productive. More soon, but the end is near! Pascal
  11. Wow beautiful model of an FZR ! May I ask what colors they used for this ?
  12. Earlier
  13. Hi, Thank you very much. Decisive assembly if any, the engine is assembled with the chassis. Assy is done with Loctite 401 and reinforced, as usual, with screws, washers and bolts. The inside of the bathtub is done, the seat is finally installed as the side water pipe and the gear selector. The fuel valve is installed. I made and temporary installed the soft fuel cell. We call it Bladder for aircrafts... It was not modeled by MFH and, even if the polished metal part is nice, the front end was too empty for my taste. The fuel cell fills the both sides and the front body above the pilot legs. I made it from self amalgamating tape which depicts pretty well the rubber bladder. Then, rivets.. I finally installed about 300 and need around 300 more. So I primed, painted and varnished those ...300 rivets. Wheels done and Balancing weights installed, made of... Lead. More soon. Pascal
  14. Very nice car Poli050 ! ! That is not a Revell kit, it's a Hasegawa kit in a Revell box. These are great relatively simple kits with not to many parts and the end result can be very impressive. They also did the Rothmans Porsche 956.
  15. beautiful work!! looks awesome.
  16. Thanks John, if Tamiya builds the super detail set like Top Studio, I would think, the build would be easier
  17. Another motorcycle model, Honda Monkey 125, Tamiya, excellent quality as always, I finished this in fifteen days ... Sandro
  18. Olá pessoal, há muito tempo sem postar neste fórum, então vamos a alguns dos modelos mais recentes concluídos. Começando com a Yamaha FZR750 Tech 21, modelo Fujimi de excelente qualidade. Sandro
  19. That’s a great little idea John. I could spray white surfacer over the red, then white. Could work, thanks mate! I think (at least thought) Mr Paint was a lacquer like Tamiya, but maybe not. I used an Olfa compass cutter. Very cheap compared to other options out there. You could also use a compass with a design knife instead of a pencil......
  20. Things look good Thanh - you are making great progress with the build. You have done a great job with the Top Studio detail set. Cheers John
  21. Hey Griffo - I just had a thought - is it possible you can paint the red circles first? and then paint the white around the red circles ? I'm not sure how well the white will cover any overspray of the red? - it maybe worth a try. Cheers John
  22. Sorry to see things go awry Griffo - yeah it's not going to be easy to paint the circles Masking tape doesn't seat well enough to keep from bleeding under the tape. As for the paint lifting - what type of paint is the Mr. Color "white". There is a paint sequence that needs to be adhered to - it is Lacquer then Enamel then Acrylic. Obviously the Mr. Color white was not stuck to the primer as well as the masking tape was stuck to the Mr. color white. I recommend the Tamiya "fine white primer" or the "fine grey primer" as the primer base under TS paints. I personally only use the Tamiya primers for all my builds and have not to date had a problem with paint lifting off the primer base when the tape is removed. Also I recommend That you remove the tape carefully shortly after the red color has been sprayed. As soon as the red paint has set up - remove the masking tape carefully. Don't wait for the red paint to fully dry. It all looks fixable so don't be discouraged - we are all learning here from you - so we appreciate your sharing of the difficulties. Griffo - what brand and model number is your "circle cutter"? That looks to be the best one I have seen. Cheers John
  23. Thanks @Griffo_Aus! I continued the work and finished a little more on the air/electric box as well as the handle bar and speedometer.
  24. I guess I spoke too soon 🤪😪😁 Didn't work out quite as I had hoped. I burnished and burnished, but when I removed the tape, apart from the seepage under the mask, the paint peeled off with the tape! Plus, like an idiot I forgot to properly mask of the left fairing after spending ages on the right. I guess that's what happens when you rush. Anyway, a lesson learned I hope. I'll try it again next weekend. Thinking about it, I used decanted Mr Color white, not Tamiya TS white. Even when sanding back, the red (Tamiya TS red) lifted very easily. I wonder if they don't get along. Will use Tamiya white when I redo. It may just have been impatience also, may have gone with a wet coat too soon..... As they say, if you're not making mistakes you're not trying! Gives me a chance to hone my recovery skills. So, have the frame together, will black base then spray it Mr Color Super Metallic SM01 Super Fine Silver. Engine components are painted in the superb Tamiya LP lacquers. Can't recommend them highly enough! Really enjoying the kit, part fit is excellent so far and the detail is fantastic.
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