Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Really looking good Thanh Have you tried using any of the Zero 2K clearcoats? The Zero paints 2K clear gloss is very good, but you need to wear a respirator if you spay it - It uses cyanoacrylate as the hardener (cyanoacrylate is the same thing as "CA-zap" or super glue). Very dangerous if it gets into your lungs. a decent respirator can be bought for about $35-$40 USD - also you want to spray it in a well ventilated area. The 2K clear is nice because it is UV stable and does not "yellow" over time like a lot of 1K or regular clearcoats can. It also gives very good results and is thick enough that it can be sanded and polished if you choose to. You want to be careful if you decide to use it, because it can cure very "hot" and melt the decals. So you want to apply a tack coat that is thinned a little extra with the reducer "thinner" - not the catalyst - keep the clear and catalyst in the correct 2:1 Clear: hardener ratio, but a little extra thinner that will allow for a thinner first "tack" coat to cover the decals and prevent the 2K clear from melting the decals - Then add a regular second coat of 2K clear and after that has flashed a 3rd "flow" coat that gives the clearcoat that depth the makes the decals look like they are fluid in the paint. - after the clear has dried for 48 or more hours then it can be sanded or polished to remove any imperfections. It is worth a try if you are interested in the perfect clearcoat finish. Keep up the excellent work Thanh - your skills have come along really well since you first started posting with the RC213V Cheers John
  3. The monster version is so charming. I even love it more than the yamaha fiat team version
  4. Last week
  5. Thanks @imster i learned a lot through builds. now the shift linkage and steering damper are ready.
  6. Thanks John. I used decanted Tamiya rattle cans - TS-26 white, TS-53 deep metallic blue and TS-56 brilliant orange. The orange was ever so slightly off compared to the decals, as you can see on the fairing. The decals were very fragile; for example the long white decal on the rear cowl broke into many pieces as soon as I laid it down. I guess they are nearly 20 years old now.
  7. I agree with Imran - very nicely done. Did you use the Zero paint set for the 1999? What paint manufacturer and code did you use to paint the bodywork? Cheers John
  8. Thanks Imster, Melbourne. Decided to paint rather than use the decals. A few issues, but came out mostly ok. Used Finishers GP1 urethane clear-coat. It’s fantastic.
  9. Nice paintwork mate! Where in Australia are you from?
  10. Top work!!! You're modelling skills have come along leaps and bounds! Keep up the good work!
  11. nice work man! I didnt know you could get a 1/8 Ferrari F430! I assume its an expensive kit?
  12. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/y7x4tebv0mghqw9/AAAFg5y2YAZI0igRG7F-YiM5a?dl=0
  13. Earlier
  14. To do further wiring stuff, I decided to paint some related parts. That involves the cowlings, electric boxes, tank, etc. While I‘m going with tech m3 version, you will see most parts are in black. 😇
  15. As an Aussie, have always admired our motorcycle GP riders. Gardner, Doohan, Magee, Beattie and others. I plan to build as many Aussie GP / MotoGP bikes as I can, starting with this one.
  16. Hi John, this is the clear coat I used on the CF. Looks great after the clear coat, doesn’t it? i haven’t had chance to order that book yet. Will definitely take a look soon. hope I would see your builds very soon. ^^ i just used the provided wires in the top studio box and repaint them as black wherever they are being glued. :) And just flat black from Mr Hobby. A little bit sanding on the fairings.
  17. wow Thanh - looks like you are moving along quicker with the YZR now. You did a great job of applying the carbon fiber decals to the airbox - which clearcoat did you use? Thanh I hope to get back to building bike models in April some time - I have to set up my work station again. did you send Mac and email to order some of the Pit walk MotoGP Archive books? he has most of them - they are the best book reference books with excellent photos of the motoGP bikes. What are you using for the wiring on the bike? - are you using the silver wire from the Top Studio set and then painting the wire "black" ?? - what black are you using if it is paint. Look forward to seeing more. Cheers John
  18. Wow. Thanks John! That is such an valuable resource. Never imagine you were a pro rider like that, so you should have such real experience of how the bike looks like. Sorry to hear you can’t continue your race, that’s pity. But yeah, the good thing is still moving forward. I would wish you all the best and continue your ambitions on motorGP. I think it won’t stop in you. Last but not least, would love to see your buildings. I would say that would be the most amazing things. 😊
  19. No worries Thanh - my comment of the exhaust tip should be blue/purple hue not gold is just my opinion - if you want it to have the gold tone that is fine - the thing is you are getting better with each build you do and the exhaust is getting more and more realistic. I used to race superbikes here in the USA on the regional and National level before I was paralyzed in an accident and I remember well when titanium exhausts first started replacing the stainless steel race exhaust systems - In the early 1990's Russia flooded the international market for titanium which lowered its cost because there was such an over supply on the international market so because titanium was cheap they started using it a lot in the motorcycle industry to drop weight and add that exotic flavor of titanium. Even some street exhaust systems were made in titanium because the price had come down so much. look for some of the "Pit Walk " motoGP books at Mac's modeling or Hiroboy - they have really good pictures of the exhaust pipes on the motoGP bikes. see the link below http://www.macsmodeling.com/mysite/F1 Stuff.htm The last link is the "Reference Materials" tab scroll down to the bottom and you will see the "Pit Walk" motoGP Archive books - these are the best book reference for MotoGP Cheers John
  20. Thanks John for your input. That’s really awesome to help me improve my skills. Yeah, I did use the AlCad as you suggested on my last build. To be honest, it is super on simulation. However that should combine with builders‘ skills to bring it the level where it is. Something I’m still lacking atm then you see the exhaust can is rendered as gold. 😅
  21. Thanh - the YZR M1 is coming along very well I think you have done a much better job of the heat staining on the exhaust pipe on this build than on the RC213V Are you using the AlClad heat staining colors? - I think the tip if the exhaust can is a little over done - usually this far away from the engine it has more of a blue or purple hue than the gold color you have used - They use titanium on race pipes not stainless steel so the color is more to the blue/purple range than gold - on stainless exhausts the colors are mostly golds. Anyhow my point is you are making very good improvements The rest of the engine detail is awesome - keep up the great work you are doing. Cheers John
  22. So after it sits there for awhile, let’s warm it up by bringing parts together. Now swing arm is attached to the body as well as some wirings. And let it stand on one wheel. 😁 Looks cool, isn’t it?
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.