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18 hours ago, fortyfourpm said:

This is what you call being a detail freak ?. Excellent work and glad to see you’ve got your mojo back. 

 

Thanks Dallas, I've got the mojo just need to find the time lol!

 

 

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I can finally say that the rear section is complete! The main worry I had was how the rear wing lined up and it looks pretty much spot on!

 

I added the rear anti-roll bar adjuster which is the white line coming across the ARB, I also finished off the tail section and the plumbing that went with it as well.

 

Excuse the poor quality photos, all done with my iPhone and substandard lighting!

 

The tail section all AN fittings ready to be plumbed, special thanks to @robrex for making the rear light for me :)

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Test fitting with the rear wing, lots of modifications were made to the anchor points of the rear wing

 

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Rear wing completed!

 

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Test fitting the rear wing with both front and rear anchor points, you can see the metal wire across the transmission is where the bolts go for securing the rear wing.

 

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Rear wing glued in place, I used 2 part epoxy as my adhesive as its great for tough bonds and has a little bit of flex unlike CA glue which can be very brittle

 

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Plumbing complete, and I mocked up the rear wheels to see how it all sits, thankfully its all sitting flat and true! The excessive camber on the rear wheels is because they werent secured properly and so the play between the rim and the rear hub is accentuated.

 

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As is always the case with my builds: I take 2 steps forward and 1 step backward..... Before all of the rear end was completed I started to paint the bodyshell, and it got completely ruined! long story short is that the Zero Paints were way too hot and started to craze the plastic underneath the primer, I was extremely annoyed! As a result I tried to salvage it but because of the rivets added it was very difficult to get the bodyshell back to a good enough state to repaint it. Out came the donor kit bodyshell which I have now prepped ready for its first coat of primer. This time I will not use Zero Paints and instead use Tamiya TS-29. I have also decided not to redo the rivets mainly because I felt the ones I used originally were too big and out of scale, I will either use rivet transfers from Archer Transfers or I might just leave them out entirely! I am still waiting for the Archer Transfers so hopefully I will have an update on my next post on how it all went!

 

The bodyshell all primed and ready for colour coat!

 

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Heres the finish after the Zero Paints colour coat :(

 

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I stripped, sanded and tried another repaint with Tamiya primer but still too hot!

 

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The culprit!

 

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It's not only great looking (what a detail) but the pictures are al so nicely shot!!!

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15 hours ago, Rob said:

It's not only great looking (what a detail) but the pictures are al so nicely shot!!!

 

Thanks Rob! Happy to get compliments for my iPhone photos! Wait till you see my proper shots then ;)

 

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15 hours ago, Rob said:

It's not only great looking (what a detail) but the pictures are al so nicely shot!!!

 

Thanks Rob! Happy to get compliments for my iPhone photos! Wait till you see my proper shots then ;)

 

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I had issues spraying Zero on one of my bike builds eating through the primer and etching the plastic. Since I have learned that my Iwata CS airbrush sprays with a really focused pattern which loads up the spray area too wet. However, my Iwata NEO TRN3 sprays a wider pattern with less force which has worked better with Zero eliminating the etching issue. It still sprays a wet pattern, just not as loaded.

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On 02/03/2018 at 11:57 PM, Dino said:

I had issues spraying Zero on one of my bike builds eating through the primer and etching the plastic. Since I have learned that my Iwata CS airbrush sprays with a really focused pattern which loads up the spray area too wet. However, my Iwata NEO TRN3 sprays a wider pattern with less force which has worked better with Zero eliminating the etching issue. It still sprays a wet pattern, just not as loaded.

 

Thanks for the info Dino, I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with a 0.35 needle, it doesnt spray very heavy with the 0.35 needle, I just have issues about the consistency of the paint, sometimes they spray perfect and other times they spray horribly!! I am sticking with other options if possible from now on....

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2nd time and all has worked out! I used Tamiya TS-29 decanted and sprayed through my airbrush and automotive 2K clear. I left out doing the rivets because despite ordering Archer Transfers almost a month ago, they still havent arrived so I cannot wait any longer, I have also been reliably informed that archer transfers probably wouldnt have been a good solution anyways because the resin rivets have a carrier film which is pretty thick and would stand out quite a bit!

 

I couldnt help but mock it all up and see what it will look like! Soon this one will be finished!

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Wow I didn't realise I hadn't updated this thread for a while! As of today the build is complete but I have some WIP photos of the cockpit and other parts which I will go through now:

 

So on to the cockpit area! The kit itself doesnt really do the cockpit justice, the gearshifter is heavily simplified and the anti roll bar adjuster is the same too, in addition to this the seat isnt done correctly as it is missing some holes for the seatbelt along the lap and I also made some big modifications to the steering wheel and dials based on reference. 

 

So first the gearshifter..

 

Here is the Tamiya kit part

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My scratchbuilt part (sans paint)

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comparison:

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For the ARB adjuster I didn't take any photos of it before I installed it sorry about that! I used the Studio27 detail part for the ARB but I heavily modified it by drilling through it and creating the adjuster knob and tubing that went through it, I then attached it to the white wire which is connected to the rear engine bay area.

 

After this was done I set about completing the cockpit area including the dash section. I used reference to install the various buttons and switches in the round orifices and then I attached the gearshifter and the ARB adjuster, rather than painting the aluminum sections I used BMF which is harder wearing and gives the perfect amount of shine as well:

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Next up was the steering wheel which I modified by cutting parts of the kit piece off and then adding a switch in the middle and turned bolts, Once that was done I installed the cockpit section into the chassis

 

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On to the seatbelts:

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Next it was time to install the engine to the chassis, I had to reinforce the joint because of the sheer weight of the white metal engine, I decided to use epoxy as the adhesive and then also to use a screw to ensure the strong firm fitment

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I also had to hold the parts like this for 5 mins while the epoxy set!

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After leaving it all overnight to properly set I decided to do a quick mock up to see how it will all look once complete, I was surprised by how long the car was but overall I love the way it looks

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and finally the cockpit was installed

 

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After this was done the roll bar, seat and seatbelts were installed

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Then the front end was completed, I didnt add too much to this area because most of the detailed parts are hidden under the various cowling pieces. I then glued up the chassis with the cowling, I also attached the wheels at this point

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Then disaster struck! I managed to lift the clearcoat when I was attached one of the PE dzus fasteners :(

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So I got in touch with one of the top builders I know @David thibodeau and asked his advice, he told me to use Future in flow it under the lifted clearcoat and then put the dzus fastener on and use more Future to seal it..... Well it worked a treat and repaired the damaged section perfectly! Here you can see before, during and after photo of the affected area

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DSC07818.JPG.6de698ac1260a63f4884f627d3031697.JPG

 

 

So this build is complete! Thanks to all those who followed along with this build, I know I didn't go too detailed as I usually do, that was mainly due to time constraints and in future I shall be putting up detailed WIP's like I usually do.

 

Here is the link to the final pics: Lotus 78 Final Photos

 

Some things to keep in mind when building this kit:

- This kit is old fitment isn't great so be sure to mock up often and check clearances

- The standard kit is very simplified, and Tamiya got the location of the ARB and exhaust attachments incorrect

- Try to get your hands on the Studio 27 detail up kit, it has lots of white metal parts and also correct the ARB issue listed above

- If you are doing Mario Andretti's car then the kit roll bar is too high, so you need to cut it down to size

- The kit decals for the yellow lines aren't great, the colour is too yellowish and the actual car had a biscuit colour rather than yellow, get yourself a set of Tabu decals or even Indycal decals for this kit

- When building the engine is it really important to ensure the various sections (engine block, oil pan and transmission) are bonded square, because of the age of the kit the pin location points aren't great so if you're not careful you will end up with bent and out of alignment parts. This will be amplified when you attach the rear suspension and wheels as those parts are directly connected to the transmission

 

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