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No worries Mueller

The reason why you don't want to use dish washing liquid soap is because there are emollients in them so that the skin on your hands does not dry out.

But those emollients will cause the clearcoat to do more of the problem that Peter has already - 

If you want to try and clean it get a clothes washing detergent powder with no fabric softeners or dry bleach or whitening agents in the powder - just a plain powder soap detergent and dissolve a small amount in water and once the power soap is in solution clean the area with a tooth brush and the soap solution and try to get into the recesses to get the silicates off the part.

We have a clothes washing powder here called "Tide" that can do what is needed but you have to get the type that has only detergent and no other washing additives like fabric softener or whitening agents

Try something like that Griffo

Cheers

John

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Thanks to both of you!

 

Soooo... I've really slathered the clear on and it's beautiful and shiny - but oh so syrupy.. Will take a while to sand down - but no orange peel. All the Yamaha logos's have issues with the points of the letters.

 

I purchased a new HIQParts decal squeegee and used it to settle the decals. That's the only thing I did / used different. Oh and let it sit for 10 days before it was clear coated - don't usually wait that long.

 

I have to say though - it has really brought out the pearl effect - especially in natural sunlight.

4E90825D-27D1-41D4-A053-5FE4EF626AF2.jpeg

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Griffo - you are using the "Gravity" paints 2K clear - correct??

Is it the "Gravity Paints" in Europe or the blokes in the USA??  -  I haven't heard from the USA guy in a long time now.  There was a split between the two and there were some bad words said between the two about their business practices on some of the model forums.

I'm not sure what "brand" manufacturer the gravity paints use for their 2K clears.

I use the Zero paints 2K clear that I you can get from Hiroboy UK - but I get them from their USA distributor when  actually purchasing the paints - takes longer to get anything but the shipping is far cheaper.

Since the "hazardous" materials went into effect with the shipping companies - it is cost prohibitive to order paints and clears from Hiroboy to outside of the UK or the EU unless you have a distributor in country.

Everything looks salvageable in your photos except for maybe that right side fairing cowl - Peter I will post a photo of the "Tide" clothes detergent that I use to clean everything before I primer any parts on Saturday USA time - so you can see what I suggest using to "clean" or remove the contaminants of the side fairing.

As for 2K having syrup characteristics - lol  yes when you mix 2K as directed and apply the "flow" coat it is like liquid clear being poured over the part  lol.

 

Peter are you guys locked down In Aussie land??  most of the world is locked down again and the new President that will take over here in the USA on January 20th says he's going to try and lock down the USA too - waiting to see if someone files a lawsuit to block it as we have a "Constitution" that limits Federal and State governments powers and we also have a Bill of Rights that guarantees individual rights limiting what the government can impose on the people - so it remains to be seen if the USA gets locked down again - We have some Democrat run states that have instituted a temporary lock down, but their rates of infection and deaths is just as high as states with no lock downs so it is obvious that isolation and lock downs doesn't equate into less infections and deaths.

cheers

John

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Hey John, in Victoria, we have just come out of lockdown in the last month (after 120 days of not being able to go further than 5 kilometres from home). We've now not had an infection for over 40 days.

 

I've used Gravity Spain. Will give the Zero a go when I can. There's also a local product for SMS which may be easier to get.

 

https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/ultra-clear-coat-2k?_pos=1&_sid=015bd24c4&_ss=r

 

 

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11 hours ago, John18D said:

Peter I will post a photo of the "Tide" clothes detergent that I use to clean everything before I primer any parts on Saturday USA time - so you can see what I suggest using to "clean" or remove the contaminants of the side fairing.

I would also find that interesting, you never stop learning.
Although I had with my method also for a long time no more craters in the paint.
I use but also no Zeros but Standox or Mipa paints .

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Ok, for the first time in a long time I'm going to "park" this build.

 

I have no replacement decals to correct the clear coat issue - and I have found myself just avoiding the build. So - it's all packed up. Not completely out of sight, but out of mind for a while.

 

I'm going to move on to an older kit.........

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On 12/11/2020 at 4:51 AM, mueller said:

I would also find that interesting, you never stop learning.
Although I had with my method also for a long time no more craters in the paint.
I use but also no Zeros but Standox or Mipa paints .

Mueller and the rest of the builders on the forum - this is the detergent that I use to clean the model parts and sprues with before I apply the primer - I mix a teaspoonful of the white powder granules in a liter of distilled water and dissolve the granules thoroughly before using - then I give the parts and sprues a scrub with a tooth brush and the soap solution - rinse with more distilled water only and dry with a clean cotton cloth.  Note the clothes washing powder granules are "white" only - not a mix of colored granules - You do NOT want a clothes powder detergent that has fabric softeners or whiteners in it - just plain detergent - so READ the label of the product before you buy it - there should be something like this where you live.  Once the parts and sprues are clean and dry I always wear nitrile exam gloves to handle the parts so that I do not contaminate the parts with silicates or the amino acid oils from my skin.

Hope you guys find this helpful - remember painting is 95% preparation - keep things clean - mix the chemistry "ratios" correctly - have clean equipment - and 99% of your problems with painting and clearcoating will be over - the last 1% is your technique in how you airbrush or spray.

Cheers

John

REMEMBER - to DRAIN the water and moisture from any air tank you may have before you start to spray.

 

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On 12/10/2020 at 7:58 PM, Griffo_Aus said:

Hey John, in Victoria, we have just come out of lockdown in the last month (after 120 days of not being able to go further than 5 kilometres from home). We've now not had an infection for over 40 days.

 

I've used Gravity Spain. Will give the Zero a go when I can. There's also a local product for SMS which may be easier to get.

 

https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/ultra-clear-coat-2k?_pos=1&_sid=015bd24c4&_ss=r

 

 

Peter and the rest - you can save a lot of money if you buy the 2K stuff directly from an auto paints distributor or retailer - You can get a liter of clear and a 1/2 liter or 1/4 liter of catalyzer "hardener" depending on the mixing ratio and a liter of reducer "thinner" for about $50 and that will last you a life time of models - just keep the stuff in the metal containers in the fridge - heat and sunlight will cause the 2K clear and the catalyst "hardener" to cure prematurely.  If you store those two items in the refrigerator they will last indefinitely - I have 2K stuff if the fridge still good and usable from 10 years ago.  The thinner can be stored in the can at room temperature.

Cheers

John

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