Yamaha YZR-M1'05 Valencia 50th Anniversary edition

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Next build on the bench, 2005 Valencia Anniversary edition Yamaha YZR-M1, with a few extra details.

 

Have had this kit in the stash for a long time and @Thanh Nguyen has inspired me to give the Top Studio detail set a go.

 

 

Edited October 4, 2020 by Griffo_Aus

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Have made a start.

 

I'm using magnets for the fairings this time. These are 2mm x 1mm.

 

Just have to make sure you get the orientation correct. Need to fill the holes before primer.

 

Surgery about to begin.

Edited October 7, 2020 by Griffo_Aus

[Griffo_Aus 8]

small progress.....

 

[John18D 15]

Hi Griffo - off to a great start - Looks very good so far.

You don't think the magnets are too larger??  

I bought some a while back but mine are closer to 1mm X 0.5mm neodymium.

I will definitely follow the build to see how yours comes out.

Cheers

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Hey John - yes, the magnets are a little too large, but I think they have worked ok. If I get all the detail on, the fairings probably wont fit anyway! No matter where I looked, I couldn't find any 1mm x 1mm, so settled for the 1mm x 2mm.

[John18D 15]

Peter - you really want magnets that are 0.5mm X 1.0mm or 0.5mm X 1.5mm  -  I have found that the 0.5mm Thickness X 1.5mm Diameter work best for the body panels - 1mm thickness is too thick for the plastic of the body panels.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thickness-0-5mm-1-5mm-3mm-5mm-7mm-Diameter-1-5mm-Circular-Cylinder-Stong-Magnet/332281001960?var=541288357847

 

The link is for the ones that I use.

Cheers

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Slow progress on this build for some reason. Decals all done, need to let them dry, then clean up before clearing coating with Gravity 2K. First time I will be using this clear coat.

 

Have also made a start of the large amount of carbon fibre work to be done. Will spray this with satin clear.

Edited November 8, 2020 by Griffo_Aus

[andrew59it 48]

Love it.... which pearl white did you use for the panels?

[John18D 15]

The paint looks really good Griffo - is that a "pearl" white?? or a regular white?

cheers

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Thanks @andrew59it and @John18D, appreciate your comments.

 

I base coated in Gaianotes gray surfacer Evo GS01. Rubbed back then 2 coats of decanted TS26 white, then 2 coats of decanted TS45 pearl white.

[Thanh Nguyen 21]

Oh wow @Griffo_Aus that Yamaha machine is also charming. I have one but mine is US inter-coloring edition. 😁

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Thanks @Thanh Nguyen, you inspired me!

[mueller 53]

Painting has become very nice, carbon finish fits also.
How did it work with the Gravity 2 K ?

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Thanks @mueller.

 

My first time using them, I think went ok - but... I wanted nice thin coats, but ended up with pin holes like this....

 

So I don't think I was getting an even coat. Plus, I can't fit my glasses on when using my respirator, so was making it difficult to really see the finish I was getting.

 

I also may not have waited long enough between coats - 5 minutes - will try 10 next time.

 

Overall ok, but had a run and also affected the decal on the tank top.

Edited December 6, 2020 by Griffo_Aus

[mueller 53]

I know this only too well, it is always very annoying.
And paint defects can have many causes.
My guess would be, as it looks like to me, that there might have been some decals softer or grease residues at that place.
If this effect also occurs after repainting, it is in my experience usually a contamination on the surface.

Schau mal hier https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/how-to/problem-solver/sagging-wrinkling/sw-article-dir-fisheyes

[Griffo_Aus 8]

Thanks again @mueller.

 

What do you use to clean the surface prior to clear coat? I am always worried about disturbing the decals. This is the first time I have had this issue......

[mueller 53]

I use a lint-free cloth, distilled water and washing-up liquid, after I have applied the decals and dried well and you can see remains of the Decal softener.
I must mention that I only have my own airbrush for clearcoats.

[John18D 15]

Griffo - DO NOT USE WASHING LIQUID SOAP

 

Mueller is correct Peter - there must have been either some amino acid oils from your fingers or hands or some residue from decal setting solution or there is water in your spray equipment.

What your photo shows is definitely "silicates" that have contaminated the surface so the clear would not apply properly.

Check your spray equipment for water too - drain the tank and check the water filters and water traps.

Also once you start painting I only ever touch the model with nitrile exam gloves - never my bare fingers or hands -so that I do not contaminate the surface with silicates.

Also don't over thin 2K thinner more than 10-15% - that means if you are using 5ml normal thinner and you add extra - don't add more that 0.5-0.75 mL more - if you over thin 2K you can also get issues.

 

Cheers

John

[John18D 15]

Griffo - you do not want to "clean" the parts with anything that contains "petroleum distillates" because they will destroy the decals.

conversely you do not want to use any "soap" or detergent that contains any "emollients", because they will cause additional coats 2K clear to do more of the problem you already have.

 

Once I have "primered" a part I only touch the parts again with nitrile gloves on so that the amino acid oils on my hands and fingers do not contaminate the surface of the parts to be painted or clearcoated.

I'm not sure if you can "lightly" sand out the problem you have without damaging the decals an then re-airbrush the parts with clearcoat, or if you will need to strip the entire piece and start over on that panel - I can't tell from the photos if you had that same problem on other parts you clearcoated as you had on the side panel.

If the parts were kept clean then I suggest you look at your airbrushing equipment - most people forget to drain the "water" from their compressor tank - you need to do that frequently especially if you live in an area where the "air" has a high humidity content.  remember any time you compress air you "heat" it and when air is heated - moisture is condensed out of the air and you end up with "water" in the system.

Cheers

John

 

As for "waiting time" - the flash point for additional coats usually 15-20 minutes is fine - 

Edited December 7, 2020 by John18D

[mueller 53]

Thanks John for the hint with the soap .
I often have to use a translator and it is quite possible that I send someone into the desert.