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Have made a start.

 

I'm using magnets for the fairings this time. These are 2mm x 1mm.

15818AD5-A413-4BB7-889A-689EA990F806.jpeg

 

Just have to make sure you get the orientation correct. Need to fill the holes before primer.

35EA49F0-04BC-4C15-A2F0-B0E2C08CC911.jpeg

 

Surgery about to begin.

A4650754-4788-49EA-A380-F6967229CED0.jpeg

Edited by Griffo_Aus
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Griffo - off to a great start - Looks very good so far.

You don't think the magnets are too larger??  

I bought some a while back but mine are closer to 1mm X 0.5mm neodymium.

I will definitely follow the build to see how yours comes out.

Cheers

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Peter - you really want magnets that are 0.5mm X 1.0mm or 0.5mm X 1.5mm  -  I have found that the 0.5mm Thickness X 1.5mm Diameter work best for the body panels - 1mm thickness is too thick for the plastic of the body panels.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thickness-0-5mm-1-5mm-3mm-5mm-7mm-Diameter-1-5mm-Circular-Cylinder-Stong-Magnet/332281001960?var=541288357847

 

The link is for the ones that I use.

Cheers

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Slow progress on this build for some reason. Decals all done, need to let them dry, then clean up before clearing coating with Gravity 2K. First time I will be using this clear coat.

1971B795-15BE-4F97-837E-E25413964D40.jpeg

 

Have also made a start of the large amount of carbon fibre work to be done. Will spray this with satin clear.

8AB2E192-0B08-41B8-A765-973CF25E8915.jpeg

Edited by Griffo_Aus
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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks @mueller.

 

My first time using them, I think went ok - but... I wanted nice thin coats, but ended up with pin holes like this....

386F0B8F-6313-41A4-9256-8A604359B41D.jpeg

 

So I don't think I was getting an even coat. Plus, I can't fit my glasses on when using my respirator, so was making it difficult to really see the finish I was getting.

 

I also may not have waited long enough between coats - 5 minutes - will try 10 next time.

 

Overall ok, but had a run and also affected the decal on the tank top.

B24B3194-C3AA-4D5C-AFB7-160B824CD46C.jpeg

85FF7962-5C32-4865-B538-9A4FF6A72078.jpeg

CF38D2BF-7D4A-4303-A8AC-118125A708A9.jpeg

Edited by Griffo_Aus
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I know this only too well, it is always very annoying.
And paint defects can have many causes.
My guess would be, as it looks like to me, that there might have been some decals softer or grease residues at that place.
If this effect also occurs after repainting, it is in my experience usually a contamination on the surface.

Schau mal hier https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/how-to/problem-solver/sagging-wrinkling/sw-article-dir-fisheyes

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Griffo - DO NOT USE WASHING LIQUID SOAP

 

Mueller is correct Peter - there must have been either some amino acid oils from your fingers or hands or some residue from decal setting solution or there is water in your spray equipment.

What your photo shows is definitely "silicates" that have contaminated the surface so the clear would not apply properly.

Check your spray equipment for water too - drain the tank and check the water filters and water traps.

Also once you start painting I only ever touch the model with nitrile exam gloves - never my bare fingers or hands -so that I do not contaminate the surface with silicates.

Also don't over thin 2K thinner more than 10-15% - that means if you are using 5ml normal thinner and you add extra - don't add more that 0.5-0.75 mL more - if you over thin 2K you can also get issues.

 

Cheers

John

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Griffo - you do not want to "clean" the parts with anything that contains "petroleum distillates" because they will destroy the decals.

conversely you do not want to use any "soap" or detergent that contains any "emollients", because they will cause additional coats 2K clear to do more of the problem you already have.

 

Once I have "primered" a part I only touch the parts again with nitrile gloves on so that the amino acid oils on my hands and fingers do not contaminate the surface of the parts to be painted or clearcoated.

I'm not sure if you can "lightly" sand out the problem you have without damaging the decals an then re-airbrush the parts with clearcoat, or if you will need to strip the entire piece and start over on that panel - I can't tell from the photos if you had that same problem on other parts you clearcoated as you had on the side panel.

If the parts were kept clean then I suggest you look at your airbrushing equipment - most people forget to drain the "water" from their compressor tank - you need to do that frequently especially if you live in an area where the "air" has a high humidity content.  remember any time you compress air you "heat" it and when air is heated - moisture is condensed out of the air and you end up with "water" in the system.

Cheers

John

 

As for "waiting time" - the flash point for additional coats usually 15-20 minutes is fine - 

Edited by John18D
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