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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 1 point
    Got this one all buttoned up now. Thanks to those that followed along with the WIP. It was almost built box stock - but then I decided to re-spoke he wheels to make them look better. I also added a few resin rivets here and there where they were missing, along with some RB Motion spark plugs. Other than that it’s all kit parts detail painted. I decided to go for a well used look like an unrestored ‘daily driver’. Something used regularly, but with 40 years worth of use and abuse so there are some marks around the tank etc to add to this effect.
  3. 1 point
    @Scalelabmodels is currently working on a 1:12 3D printed chain over on his Facebook page Scalelab models
  4. 1 point
    First off, sorry for the size of the of font. My iPad is so old and messed up (it's slowing down the entire Internet). I can't copy text from any source and not have it appear as below, I've tried three different sources ie copied from the original source to Gmail then copied and pasted in here. Moving on. If you've ever been to a circuit race of any type and been able to see a fresh seat of just off the track tire's you'll know they look like hell. The best place to see fresh race tire's has been in F1 coverage when the top three cars roll into their 1/2/3 spots during presentation. In some of the shots you can really see all the worn marbles and junk the hot rubber picks up, not only tire marbles but anything in their path. The follow is something I came up with 10 yrs ago. The key is to find a kit tire that crumbles and makes a dust, some tire's only shred and turn into little rolled up elongated bits of rubber this is not suitable for this method. You need dust. 1. Start with 120grit paper and sand the hell out of a spare tire so as to acumulate tire "dust". You'll need at least a tea spoon to start. 2. Mix white glue and semi gloss black acrylic paint. Sorry I don't know the ratio but it's more glue then paint. 3. On a flat smooth surface spread a small amount of the "dust" 4. Next using a flat wide brush, brush on a thin coating of the paint/glue. 5. Now roll the tire in the "dust" covering it completely, 6. Let the glue dry for a bit then roll the tire on a smooth flat surface to embed the dust into the glue. 7. Repeat steps 4/5 until you achive the look you want. Once the rubber starts to look compacted your on your way to achieving the affect. 8. Put on a final coat of black acrylic semi gloss, this give some sheen to the rubber making it look "fresh" off the track. Final step is optional...you can also sand up different colour plastic and scrape off some grit of the 150paper and sparingly sprinkle a very very tiny amount on the tire's. This added affect appears as track garbage picked up by the tire's. This really looks the part on an open wheel car.
  5. 1 point
    The chrome is all brushed on Motolow chrome.
  6. 1 point
    This one has been away from the bench for far too long now, so time to bring it back. front wheel has been re-spoked to match the rear one and fitted to the frame. There’s not actually that much left to do on it now, so it should go fairly quickly from here.
  7. 1 point
    Thanks @John18D I would save this up for later builds. After taking off the maskings, the result is not bad. Eventhou it’s not great like other experienced builders. I would learn more. :)
  8. 1 point
    Thanks @imster every advice is valuable to me. I would try my best to find solutions before asking. btw, I’m having fun with wirings. That needs a lot of patience and precision than I ever imagined.
  9. 1 point
    Back to the chassis: I fitted the suspension, front and rear. Nothing much to change on the kit at this point - it is pretty spot on - I tweak the wheel track slightly with the hubs at a later point. The layout and geometry is spot on, and you can actually change the 'set-up' and see the changes if you fiddle with the trailing arms and de-dion tube - I need to video it sometime in the future! I also painted and fitted the diff and the fuel tank.... I added some heat shrink rubber tube on the end of the steering arms to represent the ball joints at the end
  10. 1 point
    Dipstick! Brass and ali tubing for the dipstick tube, and I printed the 'handle' - another tiny part! of course it 'works'.... So that was the main block sorted - the starter motor goes on after the bell housing... You can see I have also started to add some wiring to the block. But the next big bit to model was the air intake manifold. This was going to be a challenge in CAD for me, but managed it - best way to learn a program is a 'real' project! So the end result works, but it is by no means a 'good' CAD model! The splits involved made drawing and printing it more easily. The throttle is made separately and bolted together after painting, as will be the foam air filter. I don't have this part on my car anymore, so had to rely on photos - although I was able to go and measure some bits halfway through the process - ebay and autofactors are good resources for parts pictures by the way... Test print of the whole air intake assembly, to check fit and scale etc Lots of test prints to find the best orientation etc At this point I glued all the bits together and primed one version, just to get a clear overall view, and again, to test fit! I'll have to move the engine mounts in the chassis! Painted the air intake black, and added some variation in terms of blacks for the injectors and fuel rail etc. None of this will ever be seen again once fitted to the engine! Bolting the throttle on... Rivet! Holding the throttle pot on...(visually anyway) Gradually getting a kit of parts... More wiring... The braided hose is actually black elastic cord... I printed some of the rubber hoses as solids for assembly, as the ones between the head and the air intake manifold actually help to hold them together, and bending rubber tube would have added too much strain...same with the ends of the HT leads - I actually printed them already on the distributor cap. So that's where we are at this point! I printed some different scales for 'future projects' - Blue is 1/8th scale, painted is the 1/12 scale, grey is 1/18th for the Kyosho diecast Caterhams, and the tiny one is 1/43rd! That is 10mm across and I printed it whole to test - it would be assembled separately in the same way as the 1/12th - incredible detail being picked out by the printer though... Before the R500's went, I managed to grab a few quick photos...
  11. 1 point
    Thanks Immy, I simply used lace, held in place with spray glue
  12. 1 point
    This is truly great work Angus. Having recently got a Photon myself and starting to learn Fusion I can really appreciate the depths you have gone to. I’m sat eagerly awaiting the next updates.
  13. 1 point
    Engine - so this is the big part! Having scratch built the 2 engines on the R500's out of wood, plastic etc, machined slots in the cam cover etc etc, I wanted to 3D print these. But that meant drawing a k-series up in CAD. I'm self-teaching, so it was a bit daunting - but once you know where the buttons are, an engine block is not actually so complicated... I took measurements from many photos I have of our engine over the years, and measured the engine outside in the car - which due to access is actually pretty difficult - I could measure the cam cover easily, but that was about it - but long story short, I was able to scale the photos once I had a base measurement. Once I had pretty much finished with the CAD and engine build, I had access to a real engine that was not in the car, and measuring this I found I had been pretty damn close. I drew the engine 1:1 (I can scale when I print) and I have split it into the actual parts - so the block consists of 5-6 'layers' (although I printed the middle bits in one lump) I found out that the easiest way to model and build the engine is to do it exactly the same as the real one - so the alternator is attached with a bracket in the same way as 1:1, coil is bolted on the same way, throttle uses 4 bolts etc etc. I had a few parts lying around - like the sump - which I was able to measure properly and then scale others from that. Richards car has the plastic Rover air intake, which was going to be a challenge to draw for me in CAD. I started roughing out the overall shape - main measurements were the height of each layer in the block. Once I got those correct, I added most of the detail in by eye. I printed a VERY rough block to see if the size/scale was going to work, then a slightly more refined version at different stages. I'm learning about the 3D printing as well, and you learn to design the parts to make the printing process - particularly the orientation on the build plate - easier. The large holes are for the resin to drain - I hollowed out the 'real' one later. example of the 3d printer plate layout/slicing - where you add supports etc - I'm learning! Some examples of parts being printed - there were lots of versions, so these photos cover about a months work from now on! I'd do the occasional print with everything 'turned on' in the assembly, just to see the size etc - in the end, every component, like coil, sump, bellhousing etc was made separately. But it was getting there... Here are some screenshots of the complete engine in CAD... I printed a 1/8th scale block - 'just to see' - ummm - 1/8th scale model.... Eventually I got to the point where I was happy with the block - you can see the progression here: Next I made the ancillaries that bolt to the block - alternator, coil, air intake, throttle, cam belt cover, pulley, starter motor etc etc etc I drew up the alternator in three parts - the casting, the black plastic cap at the end and the center coil. This would make the painting easier, and allow open vents etc. I could have made the pulley separate I guess... I added the new parts to a test block to test the fit... Drilling the alternator bracket... There comes a point where you think 'what am I doing modelling this...?!' - in this case, it was when i was drawing up the crank sensor... By far the smallest part I have printed.. (get used to that pen) Adding paint really transforms everything! That crank sensor needed a flywheel - which needed a clutch (which would be hidden by the bellhousing, visible in only a few gaps - but what the hell - in for a penny, in for a pound!! Forgot the gloves... Testing silvers for the block... I used an oil wash to make it look grubby with.....oil! ..and started to paint and add the other parts - here is the coil being bolted in place... Having tried the 1/8th scale, I thought I'd try a 1/43rd one-piece engine, just to see! Tip time! Metallic paint pens (crafts etc - Amazon) - brilliant for different metallic finishes and easier to apply to details! About £10 for loads... Dip stick next....
  14. 1 point
    As on previous models, the detail in the engine bay is a highlight of these models - I made a start on the ECU/battery area. Richards car has a newer heater than the kit, so I referred to photos and drew it up in Solidworks, before printing it off... ....I'll plumb that in later. Next, the ECU and associated electrical relay boxes etc - again, drawn up in CAD and printed... I tweaked the plugs to give me holes, as I intended to 'wire' the boxes for ultimate detail! Once printed I drilled out the holes slightly to help my assembly - you can see 2 broken off drill bits in this photo!! I took an electrical wire apart to get some really thin copper wire, and then painted this in lots of primary colours, so I could add the wiring... This was fiddly - but worth it for the result, IMO! I then took the thinnest heat shrink tube I could find and stuffed the wire into it, before shrinking the tube VERY carefully, and bending the whole lot to suit... ...and the ECU box (now painted) - a LOT of wires! ...small piece of heat shrink, and a piece of elastic thread to look like the wiring loom. Used some ali tube for the ecu supports.
  15. 1 point
    At this point I decided to copy many people who make little pieces of workshop to compliment their photos - and made some chassis trolleys based on the ones we used for our real chassis! Simple plastic tube and I drew up and 3D printed some castors. Result! Engine crane and support next... ...more of that later.
  16. 1 point
    Thanks @imster I fixed the uploaded images.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks guys! Its done pretty well in all the model comps its been entered into, I'm also working on a Tamiya Model Magazine International article for this build so stay tuned!
  18. 1 point
    And the brakes.... It's easier to watch at the pictures than to explain the procedure... . I'm quite satisfied The rear wheel, some details are still missing...
  19. 1 point
    Installed the engine into the frame...
  20. 1 point
    Whoa! Those are fantastic. What's the probabilty of getting 1/12 scale with that kind of detail, slim to non?
  21. 1 point
    Your most gracious reply has been well worded and received. (y) I built the Tamiya 1/24 Sauber-Mercedes C9 some years back and it was the most rewarding thing I did, as it turned out as good as I wanted. To be honest, your build is the sort of thing that gets modellers striving for greatness. I have poured over all the images you posted and studied all your detailing in the hope that my 787B will look as half as clean, neat and tidy as yous has turned out. Many thanks for allowing us to drool and wonder.........................................Mmmmmmm Awsome. 👌 Kerry COX (Red Roo.) https://www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=14298&p=albums&album=37039
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Mueller. It's all paint.
  23. 1 point
    Even better when seen up close. An absolute winner, and an actual winner. Way to go Immy.
  24. 1 point
    The motivation for me to try my hand at 3D printing is high! Nice work Mueller!
  25. 1 point
    Thanks Imraan. Got it the main engine assembly complete - still needs the covers fitting, which I will do once in the frame.
  26. 1 point
    I made some more progress on my Ferrari, I got the driver cockpit, engine, front and rear suspension assemblies, wheel hubs and radiators all glued in now. I started putting some decals on the front and rear wing and haven't been having much luck with that, there's some pictures that show the decals on the wings, hopefully I can get them to sit down a bit more. There's quite a lot of decals in this kit. The rims are stripping because the paint job was bad and the brakes are freshly stripped too. Unfortunately for my build somehow I lost the part in the instruction picture B40 so I'll have to build it without it which sucks because it would have looked cool on there. I'm making slow progress but it's starting to look like a Ferrari at least. I should hopefully have it done in about 2 weeks
  27. 1 point
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