Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    All right, I think I knew what I will try to build next. It’s Kawasaki Ninja ZX-RR. My first build was Honda RC213V, my second was Yamaha YZR-M1, now just want to experience the other machine- kawasaki. Throughout the builds, I’m not just only learn how to build but also to know many interesting parts of real bikes. That’s awesome 😎. All parts are ready. Picture will tell more what are in this build.
  2. 2 points
    My last effort in sanding, masking and painting... I have done with decals on so very stressful.... And the decals.... I doubled them because very translucent.... single double
  3. 2 points
    Hi, Thank you very much. Decisive assembly if any, the engine is assembled with the chassis. Assy is done with Loctite 401 and reinforced, as usual, with screws, washers and bolts. The inside of the bathtub is done, the seat is finally installed as the side water pipe and the gear selector. The fuel valve is installed. I made and temporary installed the soft fuel cell. We call it Bladder for aircrafts... It was not modeled by MFH and, even if the polished metal part is nice, the front end was too empty for my taste. The fuel cell fills the both sides and the front body above the pilot legs. I made it from self amalgamating tape which depicts pretty well the rubber bladder. Then, rivets.. I finally installed about 300 and need around 300 more. So I primed, painted and varnished those ...300 rivets. Wheels done and Balancing weights installed, made of... Lead. More soon. Pascal
  4. 2 points
    Hi I decided to make the fuel cells connection faucet. It's made of white metal and a spare / modified distributor. Working on the dashboard. installed the lower body part is now done and weathered All the body parts are now fully dry. White dust is coming from the varnish dust while reopening the rivet holes. The CAVALLINO is installed on the nose and the original decal is replaced by an "enamelled" badge from an old MFH reference. Fit test of the front area. Starting the riveting process... Ainsi que sur les platines d'ancrage des tirants de suspension: More soon! Pascal
  5. 2 points
    Hi, Still progression both on the rear and front. Difference between before and after work on white metal parts. The small bucket doesn’t belong to the 312F1...but to a Tipo 500. I wanted to install thin aluminum sheet on the structure. Pascal
  6. 2 points
    Hi Mates, The envy gradually returns... The Ferrari emblem area is masked in order to avoid thickness before installing the part which comes from an older MFH kit: thicker and recovered by a thin smooth plastic layer. Preparation of the front parts. Difference between parts done and TBD. Tanks temporarily installed: A bit closer Coils and ignition system done: Exhaust Test fit: Pascal
  7. 1 point
    Oh wow @Griffo_Aus that Yamaha machine is also charming. I have one but mine is US inter-coloring edition. 😁
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Hi, Thank you. I finished the rear brakes this evening. Everything is modified and scratched to match my doc. The cockpit is finished and the upper part of the hull will be glued. I also added the welds at the junction of the exhaust pipes and the 3 in 1. Then we have to deal with the front ... Pascal
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Slow progress on this build for some reason. Decals all done, need to let them dry, then clean up before clearing coating with Gravity 2K. First time I will be using this clear coat. Have also made a start of the large amount of carbon fibre work to be done. Will spray this with satin clear.
  12. 1 point
    After a long time the fairing is ready.... just the rivets and the pe missing Made a stand to display the bike naked....
  13. 1 point
    Here is my latest completed build. Modified with RC30 wheels, brakes and suspension. Scratch built suspension mounts and exhaust. Tamiya racing blue paint with Tamiya clear. Thanks for looking Lee
  14. 1 point
    No it's not... I tried but the result was really bad.... I used the hasegawa matt black foil https://www.bnamodelworld.com/model-cars-motorcycles-bare-metal-foil-hasegawa-models-ha-71804?zenid=2e0600395a00508dec435fd9bae81d2c
  15. 1 point
    I had to work on the mirrors, reinforced the joint with 0,7 rod and finally the tank on the bike.... look at the black rubber band on the bottom of the tank :brig: and the seat... and the rubber edge also on the glass ...
  16. 1 point
    My last car finished in this quarantine, Ford GT Le Mans, Revell kit, with PE Studio 27, and Decals. Sandro
  17. 1 point
    Body panels all polished and awaiting the inside coat of carbon black. Engine mounted into frame - I need to tidy up some wash tide marks.... Expansion chambers fitted. I'm quite satisfied with the finish of the chambers. Perhaps a little more clear brown to overcome the violet hue - but it's more pronounced in the photos than it actually is. I started with a base of Mr Color Super Titanium; a little Alclad clear blue and red; Gaianotes clear black and clear brown; finished with a dusting of MRP burnt metal violet.
  18. 1 point
    Finished photos of my version of Kevin Magee's 1988 YZR500. I really, really enjoyed the build. Fit of parts was excellent, almost on Wingnut Wings level and the detail is superb. There are many fine details just needing a wash to highlight. Now, I just need to decide what to build next.........
  19. 1 point
    That’s awesome tip, thanks @fortyfourpm
  20. 1 point
    Olá pessoal, há muito tempo sem postar neste fórum, então vamos a alguns dos modelos mais recentes concluídos. Começando com a Yamaha FZR750 Tech 21, modelo Fujimi de excelente qualidade. Sandro
  21. 1 point
    Testing the fitting of the engine, radiator and the frame. Also, did the main wiring that connects to other parts 😇
  22. 1 point
    Good work Mueller, is the front forks 3D printed? They look great!
  23. 1 point
    top notch work Pascal! Your modifications are excellent!! I cant wait to see this finished as its gonna be spectacular!
  24. 1 point
    Thanks, mate. Oh, I also have the 2005 Yamaha in my stash, too. Want for it to be in turn. Yeah, the plumbing is a nightmare. But it brings the build to the next level. I’m a beginner and can do it, why not you? :)
  25. 1 point
    A really great job on this build Thanh - you are doing very well with the builds so far. When you add Top Studio detail sets one of the things you can do while you are building them is to trial fit the bodywork panels when you add the Top Studio detail items to check for fit and adjustment so that the bodywork can go back on when you are finished. That way you can trim things to fit better before you get to the end of the build. - just a suggestion for the next build you do. Cheers John
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Very nice car Poli050 ! ! That is not a Revell kit, it's a Hasegawa kit in a Revell box. These are great relatively simple kits with not to many parts and the end result can be very impressive. They also did the Rothmans Porsche 956.
  29. 1 point
    It's hard to tell before the clear is on unless you test with a white spoon. You really only have TS8 or TS39 I think it is - the "bright red" or using something like Tamiya acrylic X-7 - not sure if you have the newer lacquer paints by Tamiya - the LP- 10ml paint pots down under yet? They have them in Asia and the UK and parts of the EU The LP paint pots still haven't arrived here in the USA - we have a bunch of BS regulations that require Tamiya to put warning labels on all their paints etc etc here in the USA that slow down the arrival of products - we blame most of this on California and their paranoia of everything causing cancer - lol if you live long enough everything causes cancer it is part of life and the fact that when RNA replicates in our cells a small piece of the RNA transcription is left off and doesn't copy - eventually resulting in mutation and then "cancers" - but the people in California think if they just regulate enough we will live forever. lol John I have always appreciated the spirit of you Aussies - you blokes don't need a sign that says-"Don't feed the crocodiles" - here in the USA the idiots need a sign or they want to file a lawsuit against someone for not warning them - lol
  30. 1 point
    As an Aussie, have always admired our motorcycle GP riders. Gardner, Doohan, Magee, Beattie and others. I plan to build as many Aussie GP / MotoGP bikes as I can, starting with this one.
  31. 1 point
    This car has an FIA roll bar fitted - the kit comes with an old style roll bar you often see on Japanese cars for some reason - and of course the R500's had full cages. I printed this using a slightly different support method for the printed parts - usually you place many small supports, but these can lead to a lot of marks that need to be removed, or worse, 'sagging' of the resin around the parts. So for these thin 'rods' I instead drew a thing 'fin' in the solidworks model - this would provide support all along the length of the bar, and be easy to sand off once printed - it worked well. Test fitting... So that is where I am as of now...the photos below show most of the parts so far started 'assembled' loosely - nothing is fixed into position here, so it all looks a bit wonky! Next stage is probably to aim to fix the engine into place, once I am sure everything else has been done that will be much harder to access once the engine is in.
  32. 1 point
    Small Updates Hardly any part that you don't have to fill :(
  33. 1 point
    Well here it is, about 18 month after I started it. One of my most detailed builds to date. Thanks to everyone that followed along with the WIP. I really enjoyed this build and tried to go all-out with it. I decided early on to display it with the bonnet off, and also to have the front wheels off so the suspension and brake details can be seen.
  34. 1 point
    Last time, I did ruin the electric box cover. Now I fix it by any means I could. Repainting the yellow area to reflect the decals and applying some left decals I still have. More over while waiting for the miro mesh I ordered to arrive, I applied another layer of clear coat. Then they would be ready to be polished once they are dry. You will see decals won’t fix well on some parts. That’s st27 issue. I tried my best to reposition them. Anyway I’m still happy to finish the decals work.
  35. 1 point
    The monster version is so charming. I even love it more than the yamaha fiat team version
  36. 1 point
    Thanks Imster, Melbourne. Decided to paint rather than use the decals. A few issues, but came out mostly ok. Used Finishers GP1 urethane clear-coat. It’s fantastic.
  37. 1 point
    Impresionante trabajo 😲
  38. 1 point
    You meant I caught a lot of 🐜. 😁. I hope thIs build would be better than the previous build 😄
  39. 1 point
    Thanks @imster I have several kits are waiting for me. Hope I could make better builds 😊
  40. 1 point
    I finally got a chance to catch up on this build, very nice work on creating the weld lines, you should be almost finished soon?
  41. 1 point
    Great work, the preparation of the white metal is definitely not easy, I can imagine .
  42. 1 point
    The new DSPIAE cutter... you have to make some test before obtain something usefull.... I glued the glass with a drop of aqua gloss over the decal.... I replaced the black screws with resin bolts and filled the front well screw with some attack. Filed when dried a painted silver.
  43. 1 point
    Some news... To hide the head of the screws I filed them with exagonal shape and also lowered them a little bit. I wlll apply a pe bolts on the surface. The same for the rear swing arm but I only covered the screw head with half of a resin bolt....
  44. 1 point
    Here’s the compleed photos for my Ferrari 812. First off, thanks to those that followed with the WIP and watched my videos. Much appreciated. There were a couple of areas I could have improved on, but all in all I enjoyed the build.
  45. 1 point
    Final build photos are up on the site here. I’ll get a final review video up soon.
  46. 1 point
    And the brakes.... It's easier to watch at the pictures than to explain the procedure... . I'm quite satisfied The rear wheel, some details are still missing...
  47. 1 point
    Installed the engine into the frame...
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    No, rain tires with stell brake disc
  50. 1 point
    I had to take the front end apart, got a bit ahead of myself and forgot to install the oil cooler pipes! The pipes are made of rubber instead of plastic and due to this, the finish on them isnt great especially where I snipped them off the sprue marks are left over which cannot be sanded down or cleaned up to a reasonable level I had to take the front end apart, got a bit ahead of myself and forgot to install the oil cooler pipes! The pipes are made of rubber instead of plastic and due to this, the finish on them isnt great especially where I snipped them off the sprue marks are left over which cannot be sanded down or cleaned up to a reasonable level Next up was the decals and to my disappointment Tamiya have really dropped the ball on this, they are a far cry from the usual high quality decals you get from Tamiya. These are extremely thin and can be torn very easily, and if you use any type of decal solvent these decals tend to melt very easily so be extremely careful! In addition to this you must pay close attention and plan your decal placement especially where the green number backing decals are on the sides. You can possibly see on my pics that the green decals have darker edges and so as a result because it comes in two parts you will end up having a dark vertical green line that runs along the same line as the side airscoops. I tried my best to trim the dark edges off and try to make it all blend in. The final gripe is the front nose section number backing decal, I gave it a shot to try to get it to sit but because of the compound curves it was nigh on impossible to get it right without damaging the decal (due to the decal being too soft and fragile), or having lots of folds. If Tamiya had made the decals thicker then I am pretty sure that you could have used more solvent and a hairdryer to lightly stretch the decal to get it to conform (like we do with CF decals). I am glad that I decided to mask the front nose and paint it instead of relying on the decal, only if you look very closely (which you can see from my macro lens on my photos) you can see the rough edges of the mask. Once the decals were on I gave all surfaces a wipe with a damp cloth and wiped dry, after this the clear coat went on, Here are the pics: After the clear coat was allowed to dry I started adding all the bits to the petrol tank. I added the clamps for the petrol tank cap and painted the cap itself an off white colour as this is what the reference photos showed. I also did a bit of work on the rubber section that sits on the top of the tank, the original part looked too smooth with odd marks in it so I decided to give it a little bit of texture by dabbing a tissue with Tamiya airbrush cleaner on the rubber to melt it a little and give it a more realistic texture. And finally the rear clasp for the tank went on, this part is supplied in the kit by tamiya and looks great, not sure if I got pics of it but further on you will see it on the back of the tank. Excuse the dust in the pics, when taking photos with the extreme close up and clear definition all imperfections and dust shows up no matter how tiny they are! And to give an idea of the size of parts I am working on And to finish this update I installed the tank (the first pic you can see the tank clamp just near the front of the seat):
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.