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Everything posted by skidsolo

  1. Really nice kit from Tamiya which went together with just a couple of minor problems. Being large scale I added a lot of extra detail. I decided to change the Tamiya supplied and way out of scale HT leads for something in scale. I also took the opportunity to include the plug boots. The model represents the car of Carlos Reutemann at the German GP of 1975. During the cars three year life it won only five races with Reutemann taking four of those wins. However, the team did take second place in the constructors championship of 1975, despite only winning two races. And last, the obligatory scale photo.
  2. skidsolo

    My way with roll cages

    I want to share with you how I set about scratch building a roll cage. Others will have their own opinions, this is just how I do it. I think the first thing to say is this: DON'T worry if everything isn't perfectly square. I used to go to great pains to do so but soon realised that once inside a tin top, most slight 'misalignments' are so hard to see, it's just not worth the stress to get them perfect. And the second thing is, CHECK, CHECK and RE-CHECK at every stage. It's normal for me to have the chassis in and out of the body 4 or 5 dozen times during construction So here we go. First I mock up the interior, holding the door cards and dash in place with a little MEK. Now mark the rear hoop mounting points and drill suitable size holes all the way through the floor. Next mark the positions of the front points, at the rear of the drill. Make an adjustment for the drill width and and again drill all the way through the floor. This gives us a footprint from which to build. At this point I want to show you a little 'bender' I made up years ago. Construction shoud be self explanatory. It is a great aid in bending styrene, particularly in getting the radius's the same. Now we need to create the main hoop. Cut a length of rod, more than you will need. (Width of the cage plus twice the height, plus about 24mm extra.) Mark the centre point. Now measure the spacing of the rear set of holes. Do this centre to centre, left side to left side or right side to right side. It doesn't matter. Here you see I'm doing it centre to centre. Now using the centre mark on the styrene, mark the centre points of the main hoop on the styrene rod. Now place the rod in the bender. Note I have marked the centre point of the brass tube the better to line up the marks on the styrene. Now hold the styrene in place and slowly bend past the 90 degree point. Well past it actuualy as it will try to regain it's original shape. Don't worry if it's not quite at 90 degrees. Then repeat for the other side. That's the tricky bit!! LOL. Next insert the hoop into the holes pushing it well through the holes. Now we need to turn our attention to the side bars. With the body fitted, push a length of styrene through a front hole, making sure you have about 12mm poking through, and mark the bend point as shown. Make the bend at the same angle as the A pillar. Place the styrene back in the hole and mark the second bend point. Then make the bend. Repeat for the other side. Place both back in the holes and mark the hoop attachment points cutting a tad longer than needed. Now we need to make the 'welded joint'. Just placing a square cut edge against the hoop, will work, but doesn't look good. We need a curve to the styrene just as in the real deal. To do this I made a little jig from mild steel. Again self explanatory as to contruction I think. Place one of the side bar ends into the 'jig'. It needs to be the end that butts up against the main hoop. Make sure you have it aligned properly, so the the curve will fit properly to the main hoop. Keep some pressure on the side bar while filing with the rat tailed file. Work slowly, a little at a time. It's easy to over do it. It should come out a little like this. DON'T clean up the raggy edges. They will help fill any gap while fixing with MEK. My 'jig' is a bit worn now so this one is a little off centre. Don't worry about it though. It isn't THAT critical. When you have the side bar finished, fit it into the forward hole and secure to the main hoop with MEK. Repeat for the other side. Now we need to fit the top forward section. Measure a little long and make the curve at each end as above. Once happy with it, secure with MEK as before. In the same manner, the main hoop cross brace is made. However, getting the curves and angles is a bit more tricky. They need to be at about 45ish degrees so I usualy do them free hand. I forgot to take a photo of this step but I have indicated where it fits in this photo. Remember, the upper securing point is on the drivers side. Now break apart the dash, door card and the cage. If you only used a tiny bit of MEK, this won't be difficult. Now your cage should look something like this. Clean up the bottoms of the cage legs and the holes in the floor. Place the cage back in the holes and press down so that about 25mm pokes out the underside of the floor. Next fit the window glass in place. This is important as it may well affect the final position of the roll cage. Here you can see that this one is of the one piece type and will definitley affect the final height of the cage. Now fit the chassis/floor to the body with the hoop in place, then push the cage up into the interior until it touches the roof or it's where you want it and mark the length on the underside, as can be seen in the last photo. Cut to length. When you have made the cuts and are happy with the postition of the hoop, tack it in place with a tiny drop of MEK. Just a tiny bit, as it will need to come out again later. With the door cards removed we now have easy access for the side impact bars. Pretty simple on this build and done in the same way as the hoop cross brace. Apart from adding a couple of main hoop to rear of interior braces (done in the same manner) that's it for this one. There are many variations on roll cages and modern ones have a miriad of bars, some curved, some straight. All of thes variations can be scratch built in the manner I describe. If you are painting the roll cage the same colur as the interior, you can now glue it in permanently. If not, carefully remove it for painting. For roll cage padding and cable ties see HERE
  3. skidsolo

    My way with roll cages

    Thanks guys. SLM... for 1/24 I would use 2mm dia (= 48mm full scale.)
  4. My recent family problem continues but has eased a little to the extent that sitting at the bench has provided a much needed distraction.So this one is now finished. Next up will be to place it in a dio.
  5. skidsolo

    Time for a brew.

    Thanks Dallas.
  6. I enjoyed every minute of this build..... even the figures. They are far from perfect but I'm happy enough with them for my first serious attempt. I dedicate this diorama to our Canadian brothers, 45,400 of whom were killed in action fighting the Nazis. We owe them a debt that can never be paid. [
  7. skidsolo

    Tamiya Yamaha RZV500R

    I'm just waiting for some Tamiya matt black to arrive to do the running boards on the 32, so have time to start on this one: The decals in the kit are somewhat yellowed and I should have had them in a south window ages ago.......... but I forgot!! :16: The UK suppliers of Tamiya don't have any and it would take a month for them to arrive from Japan, so I have bought these ones instead: Construction starts with the engine which is quite nicely detailed but since the kit dates to 1984, the fit is not up to modern standards........... plus almost all of it is boring old black. Still at least it can all be assembled before painting.!! LOL Still some cleanup to do on the engine. (I hate working with black styrene!!!!!)
  8. skidsolo

    Tamiya Yamaha RZV500R

    Paint on:
  9. skidsolo

    Tamiya Yamaha RZV500R

    I used MEK Erik. (Methyl Ethyl Keytone. The discoloration is unusual with MEK. Maybe it has something to do with the type of styrene!!
  10. skidsolo

    Tamiya Yamaha RZV500R

    Some progress. Got the engine installed and most of the rear end done. I routed the two upper HT leads down to the dizzie and just tucked them in. (instead of doing it Tamiya's crazy way). Needn't have worried though. It's all but impossible to see them anyway.The upper manifolds to silencers were originally black and the colour call out was for Chrome Silver but I did them with a Molotow Chrome Pen instead.I have assembled the bodywork but it needs some work to be acceptable:
  11. skidsolo

    Tamiya Honda RC213V double build

    Looking good Tom.
  12. skidsolo

    32 Ford Five Window Coupe

    Thanks both.
  13. Finished her up tonight. Box stock apart from HT leads and fabric roof.
  14. skidsolo

    Revell Porsche Boxster

    Hey Layla, I think you did a smashing job of your first model car and you are also doing a fine job on this one too. Keep up the good work.
  15. skidsolo

    Tamiya Yamaha RZV500R

    Thanks both. No..... it will just have to be a road bike with race decals!!! LOL
  16. The kit: Mock up shows problems with the bonnet: And that the Hemi engine is too wide for the bonnet sides: And since I want to use the Hemi, this gave me the perfect excuse to dispense with the bonnet sides. LOL Base Silver paint laid: Base clear red applied: Finally gloss clear laid down to.
  17. skidsolo

    32 Ford Five Window (Full Fendered)

    Interior finished. The 'tan' is Tamiya Desert Yellow LOL. It's the closet I have so hey ho!! Steering wheel centre and door card hardware done with a Molotow Chrome Pen.
  18. skidsolo

    32 Ford Five Window (Full Fendered)

    It does work well. Here is a 1:16 model A I did in three peices:
  19. skidsolo

    32 Ford Five Window (Full Fendered)

    Odd, as it is still missing on mine!!! Micropore is very thin, textured, self adhesive medical tape. Available at your local pharmacy. Stick it to a sheet of styrene, let it dry for at least twelve hours, peel of and stick to the roof. Finally, trim as you would BMF.
  20. skidsolo

    32 Ford Five Window (Full Fendered)

    Dallas, make that post again. Some weird stuff going on and it's now disappeared.
  21. skidsolo

    32 Ford Five Window (Full Fendered)

    Thanks both Finally making progress again. Engine completed and installed, wheels on and detailed, fabric on roof. (courtesy of a fresh roll of Micropore and patience)
  22. skidsolo

    32 Ford Five Window (Full Fendered)

    Thanks both. Finally making progress again. Engine completed and installed, wheels on and detailed, fabric on roof. (courtesy of a fresh roll of Micropore and patience)
  23. skidsolo

    AMT VW Scirocco

    Going to be a lot of work Dallas but I know you'll make a fine job of it. Have at it.
  24. After ten weeks in hospital my wife is finally coming home tomorrow, so I will have a bit more time for modelling. Decided to celebrate by returning to cars with this one: