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Everything posted by 2whl

  1. I built this kit back in 2012 on eScale. If I remember right, the decals don't go down far enough, so you have to try to match the orange. Other than that, it's a good kit. I would recommend it.
  2. No it doesn't. I'm not sure if the gap filling version would work for me. It doesn't harden all the way like 2 part epoxy, so shaping it after it hardens with sanding or filing doesn't work well.
  3. I don't know if you could call it epoxy because it is only one part......no mixing. I found it in Home Depot in the glue section while looking for epoxy to do this build.
  4. One of the advantages of the glue is that it has a 30 min working time. So I could use it to glue in the cylinders and have time to get them aligned before it set up. Both the intakes and the heads were used to get the cylinders into the proper position. Once the cylinders set-up, I glued the heads on with CA. A motivational mock-up was in order.
  5. The glue seems strong enough. I've handled the framework a bit since glueing it together and nothing is coming loose. I first used the glue to repair a recliner and it worked like a charm on it, so I figured it would be strong enough for the model. The front framework got the same treatment. Then I did some fitting to make sure various pieces had clearance. On a Facebook group, one of the guys had a problem with clearance between the oil cooler and the bodywork. Looks like I won't have that problem.
  6. It's been some time since I worked on this build. It got stalled out when I had a falling-out with my build buddy, so this will proceed with out him. After trying to master low-temp soldering and being nervous about melting parts, I decided to try this stuff out. Starting with the five main engine cage parts, I slowly built my way up to the rest of the rear framework.
  7. Have you seen this site? It has a list of "fixes" for the Minicraft Titanic to make it more authentic. http://www.rivet-counter.com/
  8. Thanks guys Imster, since it is mostly white metal, when the pieces come out of the mold they get a slight bend to them that must be 'massaged' out. But the white metal lends itself to being re-positioned. I've learned with these kits that every piece has to be checked to make sure it fits to the piece next to it. The entire rear frame is white metal. I trial fit the rear frame pieces to the front frame. Then I started to clean up the rear frame pieces and got most of the holes drilled in them. The rear frame was dry assembled for fit. I still haven't decided how I will glue this piece together. My options are CA, epoxy or possibly low temp solder.
  9. Thanks guys. I hope you're enjoying this. Tonight I jigged up the painted pieces to see how everything was lining up. I checked the alignment of the intakes and the fan shroud. The shroud will need some tweaking because the holes don't quite line up with the intakes on the head. I cleaned up the exhaust pipes and did a trial fit on those pieces. I also finished off the injection pump.
  10. Slow but steady progress. I spent this session working on the frosted parts. Cleaning seams and drilling holes. Of course I had to test fit the sub-assembly for some inspiration. Then I tried out the fuel line and fitting to see how it would look. Fan shroud and fan cleaned up. I also got some color on the block and heads. Testor's Metalizer Titanium.
  11. Thanks guys. I missed posting a build session, this was last weeks work. This build session was mostly drilling holes. 48 holes for the ignition wires and another 48 for the fuel lines. I got the main parts of the fuel distributor glues together.
  12. I'll start my first WIP here with something a little unusual. Derek, a modeling buddy of mine proposed a build nite to me a couple of years ago. We would meet once a week and we would each build the same kit. We started in May 2015 on the Hasegawa 312T. The builds got side-tracked for various reasons and it took us a year to complete the two cars. Then we spent the rest 0f 2016 finishing off stalled builds. We agreed to start 2017 with the original concept of only working on the same kit. But agreed to one difference. I will be building a 1970 Longtail and he will build a 1971 car. I choose the #25 car. A quick look inside the box.................. We started off the first nite at Step #1 with the engine parts. MFH kits require quite a bit of prep with clean-up, fitting and drilling.. These are the parts I was able to get done, with a little mock-up at the end of the building session. On the second nite, I got a bit more done. The cylinders are in three parts. I also got all of the holes drilled into the engine block and CA'd some parts onto it. Another quick mock-up at the end of the session.
  13. I got mine last Friday just in time for Christmas. Awesome kit !!! I'll watch while you build it because I have to many kits in line in front of it.
  14. Thanks guys Dallas.....it's nowhere near Tamiya in quality. The small parts on the sprues have huge attach points so you have to do a lot of cleanup. I had to sand the heck out of the seat in order to get it to sit over the frame rails. As you can see, the decals are too thin. The axles and the swing arm pivot bolt had to be re-done. The good part about their line is that they do subjects not found elsewhere.
  15. Just finished this up last nite. Some of you might remember it from a Yamaha YZR build on eScale. I finally got around to finishing it off. And before you say anything about it.....I know about the D**n bleed through on the number 3's. Hopefully I'll find another kit to sacrifice it's numbers and double up on them. Until then, I'm calling it done.
  16. Antonio....I used Tamiya AS-15 Tan on the brake ducts. As for the extra details, I had lots of problems getting the bodywork and wings painted. I had to re-do everything 3 times, so I got to the point where I just wanted it finished.
  17. Another that I just finished this year. Ebbro 1/20 kit painted with TS-49 decanted and shot through an airbrush. Built mostly OOB except for fuel lines, ignition wires, and Indycals tobacco decals.
  18. I like all of the detailing you did on this. It really is a beauty.
  19. Beautiful build. I have one on the build pile also
  20. I'll be following along. I have this bike in the stash, but not the extras.
  21. Thanks Guys. The reason I put out the money for MFH kits has already been stated. With all of the metal wheels. p/e sheets and wiring extras, they end up costing the same as a plastic kit with all of the extras
  22. Marco, I just used a sanding stick. Insert other media
  23. Hasegawa 1/20 Ferrari 312T. Built up with Hobby design wheels. Painted with Tamiya TS-8 decanted and shot through an airbrush.
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