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John18D last won the day on December 24 2020

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  1. Andrea - you did a great job on the RC166 Where did you get the "circle cutter" from - Can you PM me the URL link for it?? Cheers John
  2. Mueller - Yes please - start a WIP for this build even if it is a short one Cheers John
  3. Wow Mueller - Excellent work. Beautifully done and nice photos Cheers John
  4. Peter and the rest - you can save a lot of money if you buy the 2K stuff directly from an auto paints distributor or retailer - You can get a liter of clear and a 1/2 liter or 1/4 liter of catalyzer "hardener" depending on the mixing ratio and a liter of reducer "thinner" for about $50 and that will last you a life time of models - just keep the stuff in the metal containers in the fridge - heat and sunlight will cause the 2K clear and the catalyst "hardener" to cure prematurely. If you store those two items in the refrigerator they will last indefinitely - I have 2K stuff if the fridge still
  5. Mueller and the rest of the builders on the forum - this is the detergent that I use to clean the model parts and sprues with before I apply the primer - I mix a teaspoonful of the white powder granules in a liter of distilled water and dissolve the granules thoroughly before using - then I give the parts and sprues a scrub with a tooth brush and the soap solution - rinse with more distilled water only and dry with a clean cotton cloth. Note the clothes washing powder granules are "white" only - not a mix of colored granules - You do NOT want a clothes powder detergent that has fabric softene
  6. Griffo - you are using the "Gravity" paints 2K clear - correct?? Is it the "Gravity Paints" in Europe or the blokes in the USA?? - I haven't heard from the USA guy in a long time now. There was a split between the two and there were some bad words said between the two about their business practices on some of the model forums. I'm not sure what "brand" manufacturer the gravity paints use for their 2K clears. I use the Zero paints 2K clear that I you can get from Hiroboy UK - but I get them from their USA distributor when actually purchasing the paints - takes longer to get a
  7. No worries Mueller The reason why you don't want to use dish washing liquid soap is because there are emollients in them so that the skin on your hands does not dry out. But those emollients will cause the clearcoat to do more of the problem that Peter has already - If you want to try and clean it get a clothes washing detergent powder with no fabric softeners or dry bleach or whitening agents in the powder - just a plain powder soap detergent and dissolve a small amount in water and once the power soap is in solution clean the area with a tooth brush and the soap solution and
  8. Griffo - you do not want to "clean" the parts with anything that contains "petroleum distillates" because they will destroy the decals. conversely you do not want to use any "soap" or detergent that contains any "emollients", because they will cause additional coats 2K clear to do more of the problem you already have. Once I have "primered" a part I only touch the parts again with nitrile gloves on so that the amino acid oils on my hands and fingers do not contaminate the surface of the parts to be painted or clearcoated. I'm not sure if you can "lightly" sand out the pro
  9. Griffo - DO NOT USE WASHING LIQUID SOAP Mueller is correct Peter - there must have been either some amino acid oils from your fingers or hands or some residue from decal setting solution or there is water in your spray equipment. What your photo shows is definitely "silicates" that have contaminated the surface so the clear would not apply properly. Check your spray equipment for water too - drain the tank and check the water filters and water traps. Also once you start painting I only ever touch the model with nitrile exam gloves - never my bare fingers or hands -so
  10. Peter - you really want magnets that are 0.5mm X 1.0mm or 0.5mm X 1.5mm - I have found that the 0.5mm Thickness X 1.5mm Diameter work best for the body panels - 1mm thickness is too thick for the plastic of the body panels. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thickness-0-5mm-1-5mm-3mm-5mm-7mm-Diameter-1-5mm-Circular-Cylinder-Stong-Magnet/332281001960?var=541288357847 The link is for the ones that I use. Cheers
  11. Hi Griffo - off to a great start - Looks very good so far. You don't think the magnets are too larger?? I bought some a while back but mine are closer to 1mm X 0.5mm neodymium. I will definitely follow the build to see how yours comes out. Cheers
  12. Nice photos Griffo of your NSR500 Looking forward to your next build Cheers John
  13. Hello Andrea - any more updates to the GSXR750g Cheers John
  14. Hello Thanh - any chance of finishing this one off?? I heard on the BBC news that Germany and other places in Europe are shutting down again because of virus outbreaks. It would be great to see this one finished and added to your collection of nice builds. Cheers John
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