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John18D last won the day on March 28 2018

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  1. Thanh - look at heat staining on models built by Imster ans Sandro and Andrew and Doc Fester etc etc there are many great builders on this forum and they have excellent heat staining results Cheers John
  2. If you say so Thanh But I have had and others have done better heat staining effects on this forum with the AlClad II products Look over the website at model builds and see what other master builders have used for heat staining You have done a great job so far I would hate to see you do something that would detract from your excellent build so far Cheers John
  3. Thanh - good try at the exhaust heat staining I have found it much better to use the transparent colors from AlClad II and not opaque colors. Look at your local Hobby shop and see if they have the AlClad II products and get the heat stain colors that they make. Cheers John
  4. this build is really looking great Andrea - do you post on AF anymore or just here? Getting the colors better than other RC166 builds I've seen Cheers John
  5. Thanh - which paint did you use for the frame and swingarm? What company and paint color number? Cheers John
  6. Thanh - are you from Vietnam? do you speak German? Well done if you do - I always had trouble trying to learn German - lol Anyhow back to the model - you are doing a great job with the wiring. And you are correct it takes patience and perseverance to get all the wiring done on any of the motorcycle models Are you painting the wiring after you finish threading it from place to place? Have you clearcoated the bodywork and panels yet? - interested to see how that has come out. You inspired me to pull out a 2006 Kawasaki ZX-RR motGP bike that I started long ago - it is an out of the box build with a few PE parts added and my own wiring system that I created I'm going to finish it for a contest next April and also hope to have enough time to get my RC213V built too - Out of the box with the basic Top Studio detail set for the RC213V kit 23175 - not the super detail set 29016 kit like you used - I am saving that one for a later build. Thank you for the inspiration Thanh. Looking forward to more of your updates Cheers John
  7. Thanh - yes I have seen that posting by Sandro in Brazil - he also posts builds on this website and AF website I have tried using the white glue like he says but it does not hold the links in place - they still fall off when I try to turn the assembly over There are YouTube videos for building the chains too - and I have watched several of them but still have lots of trouble trying to assemble the chain kits. I will see how your chain build goes thanks for the link though Cheers John
  8. Oh okay - it is too bad the the UK is leaving the EU because Hiroboy is a good source for model parts and paints John
  9. Thanh - Building the Top Studio chains are quite difficult It looks so easy on the You Tube videos but every time I try to build one the chain links fall apart when I try to turn the assembly over to do the other side Let me know what "glue" you use for the assembly of the chain Cherrs John
  10. Thanh where are you located? John
  11. Thanh are you using the Top Studio Super Detail set for the build? top studio 29016 Cheers John
  12. Hello Thanh - I saw your build on Automotive Forum "AF" Motorcycles WIP under the listing of peterngtr Anyhow this is looking good - I will be starting my build of the RC213V soon Cheers John
  13. Imster - this build in awesome - much like the "Newman" done by Eric Cole on f1m.com. a while back. Your attention to detail is fantastic. On the brake calipers - the "brass" bits you turned are they accurate? for the time period? I don't have the MFH 956 book you have but I question the accuracy of the modification you made to the "caliper pistons" - the cars I remember of that period used 2 separate caliper halves that were bolted together and the caliper pistons entered from the middle of the caliper into the cast and machined bores. Were the calipers a single casting for that era? On modern brakes where a single casting is used or on billet brakes like you see on some motorcycles "Yamaha" they used this technique you used on the 956 calipers, but I'm interested to know if that was also used on the 956? I have the MFH 88' 962 "Shell" #17 kit in the stash for later along with my XJR9-LM and 787B. I would expect that if yours are correct for the period then I will need to do the same on the calipers of the 962 I have. You have come such a long way since the first time I saw your work on "eScale". I think you do some of the best WIPs around - lots of pics and clear descriptions of what you did - I have learned much from your builds. Please let us know when you are back at the bench once you are set up in Canada - You will make a great addition to the North American builders - lol Cheers John
  14. Really sweet build Imster Well done on this one - did you have reference pics for this build. Cheers John
  15. Followed along Dallas both the videos and the postings - Really well done Your artistic license with the paint scheme and the decals is great. Much better than what everyone else had done. The only thing I would have done different would be to have put the decals of "the Doctor" on the windscreen and not the side fairing Also the way I tint the windscreens is to paint them with Tamiya TS "smoke" sprayed thru an airbrush.and airbrushed to the underside of the windscreen It allows for varying the "darkness" of the tint depending on how many coats you apply - Anyhow - great addition to the website Dallas Cheers John
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