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caterhamnut

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Everything posted by caterhamnut

  1. Back to the chassis: I fitted the suspension, front and rear. Nothing much to change on the kit at this point - it is pretty spot on - I tweak the wheel track slightly with the hubs at a later point. The layout and geometry is spot on, and you can actually change the 'set-up' and see the changes if you fiddle with the trailing arms and de-dion tube - I need to video it sometime in the future! I also painted and fitted the diff and the fuel tank.... I added some heat shrink rubber tube on the end of the steering arms to represent the ball joints at the end
  2. Dipstick! Brass and ali tubing for the dipstick tube, and I printed the 'handle' - another tiny part! of course it 'works'.... So that was the main block sorted - the starter motor goes on after the bell housing... You can see I have also started to add some wiring to the block. But the next big bit to model was the air intake manifold. This was going to be a challenge in CAD for me, but managed it - best way to learn a program is a 'real' project! So the end result works, but it is by no means a 'good' CAD model! The splits involved made drawing and printing it more easily. The throttle is made separately and bolted together after painting, as will be the foam air filter. I don't have this part on my car anymore, so had to rely on photos - although I was able to go and measure some bits halfway through the process - ebay and autofactors are good resources for parts pictures by the way... Test print of the whole air intake assembly, to check fit and scale etc Lots of test prints to find the best orientation etc At this point I glued all the bits together and primed one version, just to get a clear overall view, and again, to test fit! I'll have to move the engine mounts in the chassis! Painted the air intake black, and added some variation in terms of blacks for the injectors and fuel rail etc. None of this will ever be seen again once fitted to the engine! Bolting the throttle on... Rivet! Holding the throttle pot on...(visually anyway) Gradually getting a kit of parts... More wiring... The braided hose is actually black elastic cord... I printed some of the rubber hoses as solids for assembly, as the ones between the head and the air intake manifold actually help to hold them together, and bending rubber tube would have added too much strain...same with the ends of the HT leads - I actually printed them already on the distributor cap. So that's where we are at this point! I printed some different scales for 'future projects' - Blue is 1/8th scale, painted is the 1/12 scale, grey is 1/18th for the Kyosho diecast Caterhams, and the tiny one is 1/43rd! That is 10mm across and I printed it whole to test - it would be assembled separately in the same way as the 1/12th - incredible detail being picked out by the printer though... Before the R500's went, I managed to grab a few quick photos...
  3. Engine - so this is the big part! Having scratch built the 2 engines on the R500's out of wood, plastic etc, machined slots in the cam cover etc etc, I wanted to 3D print these. But that meant drawing a k-series up in CAD. I'm self-teaching, so it was a bit daunting - but once you know where the buttons are, an engine block is not actually so complicated... I took measurements from many photos I have of our engine over the years, and measured the engine outside in the car - which due to access is actually pretty difficult - I could measure the cam cover easily, but that was about it - but long story short, I was able to scale the photos once I had a base measurement. Once I had pretty much finished with the CAD and engine build, I had access to a real engine that was not in the car, and measuring this I found I had been pretty damn close. I drew the engine 1:1 (I can scale when I print) and I have split it into the actual parts - so the block consists of 5-6 'layers' (although I printed the middle bits in one lump) I found out that the easiest way to model and build the engine is to do it exactly the same as the real one - so the alternator is attached with a bracket in the same way as 1:1, coil is bolted on the same way, throttle uses 4 bolts etc etc. I had a few parts lying around - like the sump - which I was able to measure properly and then scale others from that. Richards car has the plastic Rover air intake, which was going to be a challenge to draw for me in CAD. I started roughing out the overall shape - main measurements were the height of each layer in the block. Once I got those correct, I added most of the detail in by eye. I printed a VERY rough block to see if the size/scale was going to work, then a slightly more refined version at different stages. I'm learning about the 3D printing as well, and you learn to design the parts to make the printing process - particularly the orientation on the build plate - easier. The large holes are for the resin to drain - I hollowed out the 'real' one later. example of the 3d printer plate layout/slicing - where you add supports etc - I'm learning! Some examples of parts being printed - there were lots of versions, so these photos cover about a months work from now on! I'd do the occasional print with everything 'turned on' in the assembly, just to see the size etc - in the end, every component, like coil, sump, bellhousing etc was made separately. But it was getting there... Here are some screenshots of the complete engine in CAD... I printed a 1/8th scale block - 'just to see' - ummm - 1/8th scale model.... Eventually I got to the point where I was happy with the block - you can see the progression here: Next I made the ancillaries that bolt to the block - alternator, coil, air intake, throttle, cam belt cover, pulley, starter motor etc etc etc I drew up the alternator in three parts - the casting, the black plastic cap at the end and the center coil. This would make the painting easier, and allow open vents etc. I could have made the pulley separate I guess... I added the new parts to a test block to test the fit... Drilling the alternator bracket... There comes a point where you think 'what am I doing modelling this...?!' - in this case, it was when i was drawing up the crank sensor... By far the smallest part I have printed.. (get used to that pen) Adding paint really transforms everything! That crank sensor needed a flywheel - which needed a clutch (which would be hidden by the bellhousing, visible in only a few gaps - but what the hell - in for a penny, in for a pound!! Forgot the gloves... Testing silvers for the block... I used an oil wash to make it look grubby with.....oil! ..and started to paint and add the other parts - here is the coil being bolted in place... Having tried the 1/8th scale, I thought I'd try a 1/43rd one-piece engine, just to see! Tip time! Metallic paint pens (crafts etc - Amazon) - brilliant for different metallic finishes and easier to apply to details! About £10 for loads... Dip stick next....
  4. As on previous models, the detail in the engine bay is a highlight of these models - I made a start on the ECU/battery area. Richards car has a newer heater than the kit, so I referred to photos and drew it up in Solidworks, before printing it off... ....I'll plumb that in later. Next, the ECU and associated electrical relay boxes etc - again, drawn up in CAD and printed... I tweaked the plugs to give me holes, as I intended to 'wire' the boxes for ultimate detail! Once printed I drilled out the holes slightly to help my assembly - you can see 2 broken off drill bits in this photo!! I took an electrical wire apart to get some really thin copper wire, and then painted this in lots of primary colours, so I could add the wiring... This was fiddly - but worth it for the result, IMO! I then took the thinnest heat shrink tube I could find and stuffed the wire into it, before shrinking the tube VERY carefully, and bending the whole lot to suit... ...and the ECU box (now painted) - a LOT of wires! ...small piece of heat shrink, and a piece of elastic thread to look like the wiring loom. Used some ali tube for the ecu supports.
  5. At this point I decided to copy many people who make little pieces of workshop to compliment their photos - and made some chassis trolleys based on the ones we used for our real chassis! Simple plastic tube and I drew up and 3D printed some castors. Result! Engine crane and support next... ...more of that later.
  6. After finally waving goodbye to my 2xR500 models that I have been carrying around the world for 17 years, I'm on to my next Caterham model - also 'ordered' back in 2002. I have very patient friends! But I'm on a role now, so hopefully this one should only be about 9 years.... This will be a model of a K-series Superlight - so no cage or decals (thanks god) but the same level of detail - in fact probably more after 17 years 'experience'... Here are a few shots of the 'real' car: But in this model I have already made extensive use of my new 3D printer. I have pushed myself with Solidworks, and drawn up the k-series engine entirely - every part drawn up and printed. Have also made a start on ancillaries like ECU etc. This first load of pictures will be a big dump, as I started a month ago but did not do the sensible thing and start the build diary as I went - so this is the catch up... This version of the kit is getting harder to find - it has not been re-issued by Tamiya. I got this one in 2002! I actually end up using less and less of these kits with these builds - but nothing replicates the chassis or ali bodywork, which is superb. Because the engine is different from the BDR in the kit, I have to block off the hole in the bonnet that is for the old-style carbs. Also have to fill the spare wheel carrier bolt hole on this particular car. I fitted the interior/floor ali panels - I'm not 'weathering' the car as such, but added some wear and tear to reduce the shiny ali look. The Tamiya kit comes with an old style heater (about 3 models back I think!) and this model has a newer version - I had to make a new bulkhead surface to cover the larger holes on the kit version. I had started the engine at this point, but once the owner sent me his touch-up paint pot, I primed and sprayed the other aluminium panels, rear wings and nose. The paint is a Ferrari metallic grey, so also needed a clear coat. On this kit, the wings and nose are 'carbon fibre' and these parts come with a 'carbon effect' pattern. It is a little crude, but I am going to keep it for the nose strip and the front wings - I shall 'dull it down' a bit with some Tamiya Smoke paint.
  7. Based on the glorious 1/12 Tamiya Caterham kit, the only part of the original kit is really just the chassis and body panels (yellow and blue) - just about everything else is scratch built, including 3D printing recently - commissioned by a very patient chap in 2002, lots learnt since! Totally finished now - so on to the pictures! The WIP build can be found here: Thanks for watching! I'll post some photos of the 'source' cars below....to compare!
  8. Finished! I'll post a 'finished' thread in the correct place...
  9. Cheers mate - yep, been a while - it was the 3D printer that made the end possible!! lol
  10. More exhaust details - added the rivets! I used some graphite from a pencil to add back some of the metallic look in certain areas... I glued the exhaust in at the front end (2-part epoxy this time) in the engine bay - rear exhaust mounts would come later... Of course the second, blue car had a different exhaust mount, with an extra strengthening hanger - it is common for the rear exhaust mount to snap as it hold such a long length of pipe and silencer... The white plate is for behind the drivers seat - brass pipe is exhaust support... Next big job which I had put off was the 4 clear race screens. These are quite scrappy in real life - bent ali strip along the bottom, cut perspex screens. The only way to make these was exactly like the 'real' ones - so cut some acetate sheet, cut some ali sheet and rivet them together (glued) then rivet them to the cars...great! At this point I was trying to be clever with the clear screens - there is a very small lip at the top on the real cars - I figured I could make this by using a section cut from a water bottle - I reckon you could find any canopy, headlight cover or curved window 'somewhere' on some of these curvy bottles...anyway, I found my section - but when I came to cleaning up the edges I discovered that these bottles and laminated - 2 layers! Same thickness (as opposed to the graphic sleeve some use) - and these were separating - so I dumped that idea and went back to flat - the compound curve would have made bending the corners round much more difficult, so all ok... More rivets! Scary bit - I painted these cars back in 2003 - no idea what auto paint colour I used, so no touch up later!! I glued them onto the car, but used rivets to provide a mechanical join as well... At this point with the seatbelts and screens done, I could finally glue the cages in place! Another part of the cage that I had almost forgotten about was the drivers side-impact protection... Getting close now - all these little tiny 'quick' details take waaaaay longer than you think they will take...starting with the 28 poppers to fit to the boot covers. I painted plastic rivets and then cut just the heads off to stick directly to the 'rubber' covers. Pins would have also worked, but more of a pain to cut and glue... Some poppers on the scuttles... Noticed a small bracket on the yellow roll cage - so that had to go on, complete with cable ties! Rear number plate and light on the blue car... And front plate on the yellow...I had also added tape to the front and rear lights, as race cars tend to do... And.....FINISHED!!!!!! omg - only taken 17 years!! I'll take some 'proper' finished pictures at the weekend - but well chuffed with the results.
  11. I am modelling these cars 'as-is' so the exhausts need to look like the 'used' ones on the real cars (see last post) - not all polished and shiny - although I would start at that point. I'm winging all this, but it has worked so far! As I was going to use Alclad Chrome, I applied gloss black 'undercoat' - used to make the chrome shine - as it was, I ended up going over most of this, but it gave a suitable shiny 'under' surface - most of the pipes are oxidised and dirty. The cans are aluminium or titanium, so a different colour. The I basically free-formed the build up of colour using Alclad Chrome, duraluminum, pale gold etc etc - I mixed a few together to try and get the correct tint, with the aim of using oils later... I then mixed up some tamiya acylics to airbrush, dry brush and stipple on, to represent the cruddy look of the real pipes... I still need to add some washes and highlights, and I want to try some of that graphite powder to get back some of the metallic look - but overall I am actually quite chuffed how these came out, considering I didn't 'practice' and made it up as I went along!! Not fixed in place (have to make the mounts!!).... Not finished yet - add rivets and wash, more painting - but not bad so far!
  12. Exhausts: I drew up a selection of pipes for the exhaust system - printer had a fit in the first print so I ended up with a solid lump halfway up the pipes - be good for a space craft panel in the future! Re-setting the level of the printer plate solved the issue and I printed the pipes... Lots of trimming and sanding later, I had a 'kit' of parts. A slow process of offering the exhaust up to the car and cutting each pipe to size and length so it fitted through the skin - just as much of a pain as when you fit the 1:1 'real' pipes - believe me! But everything fitted together fairly well... Of course there are two of them. I added some details, such as exhaust clamps and tabs. I wanted to paint everything in one go, rather than add after - on the real exhaust everything is pretty much the same colour... Pretty chuffed how these came out - again the 3D printer saved a lot of work with trying to bend plastic tube - you still have to put the work in drawing the parts, and a lot of finishing... Primed and ready to paint... The holes on one can are for the rivets - fitted after painting.
  13. Right - almost there with these..so some more details: Kit comes with a large steering wheel - JPE version comes with a MOMO but not the right one, and I need 2 anyway - so back to Solidworks and the 3D printer! ..end result: I also made some numberplate lights for the rear of both cars... One of the last big jobs - seat belts. The kit comes with a set of harnesses, with some sticky-backed, satin finish material, printed - but red. And not great detail - so I have to make my own. Standard practice is to use ribbon - I did play around with using 'lead' sheet - as found round the top of fancy fizzy wine bottles - used by the scale WWII plane makers - it is great because you can shape it really easily - but better on smaller scales I think - a bit thin for my purposes.... So I bought some black ribbon - 4, 5 and 6mm covered it. I needed lots of buckles and clips, so I redrew them in 3D and printed a variety - advantage of this printing is that if you fill the bed completely, it takes no longer to process - so may as well make some spairs/some to lose/some to try different finishes with... Testing... I wanted this 'crease' at the top buckle... I din't want them all the same in all 4 seats, so I varied which buckles were connected and which would be 'loose'. Fiddly little buggers to make though - folded the ribbon and glued with super-glue. Trying different glues for the paper printed 'Caterham' logos... ...and completed: Applied logo's to the seats - each car was different - particularly important for the customer! I think one of the cars was perhaps the first with a particular branding (Tillet or Caterham) Exhausts next - I have been playing with the best way to draw/print these - I had some sagging in some prints when done on their side: (Note, these black test pieces were printed at a lower resolution to speed up the printing time!) - I tried 2 halves, but just adding work to actually join and fill/smooth - so the vertically printed ones work best - print takes a LOT longer because of the much larger number of 0.01mm layers! - not figuring out the pipe run - again a bit of a bugger to do! Of course each car has a different can!! Making the exhaust system in separate parts lets me play with the angles more easily - so end pipe, can, long bent piece into collector, and then the 4 pipes that disappear into the side skin - engine-bay side pipes were done years ago as part of the engine. Once this is done, the last 'big' job is the clear 'windscreen' wind deflectors...
  14. These close up pictures show up all sorts of details/marks etc that you can't see with the naked eye!!
  15. Wheels needed some more details before fitting, so I added some tyre valves and the wheel nuts, and then the 3D printer was used to make a mask for spraying the 'AVON' graphic on the tyres, which is a detail which will look great on the race car. Luckily it worked first time...:) I modeled the tyre profile on the mask, as the spray would need to go around the profile of the tyres... tiny bit of touching-up will be required on the wheel paint....
  16. Hard not to go back to parts that I fitted/assembled 15 years ago and replace/improve! I changed these 'large' screws which held the pedal box cover on with 'rivets'... I need to be careful with this, otherwise I might never finish... 3D printer is getting more use - first with the shift-light module... And then making 2 dry sump pans - these can't be seen once fitted, as the car is so low - but they need to be there on the bottom of my custom 'K-series' engine...so not 'perfect' modeling, but good enough. Having made the '7' grill with the 3D printer, I now added the mesh 'panel' that sits behind the grill, in front of the radiator. This has worked out really nicely, imo! I sprayed a plastic mesh and glued in place, to be trimmed later... Of course it isn't all plain sailing. The paint finish on the rear wings had develped tiny cracks - it may have been the clear coat I used - but it meant I had to sand back and re-do. I masked the (home made) decal on the wings and sanded/resprayed. It only required a polish really. But the masking tape pulled the decal off...grrrr. I thought I had clear coated over the decal, but it didn't seem to hold it... So I had to remove, re-sand and re-spray without the decal - I did not have any more of these, which I had printed in NYC. No big deal, as only one time-period of the car had these particular race stickers on. Starting to assemble more sub-assemblies/parts now...
  17. Game changer mate - now the resin ones are 'cheap'....
  18. Back to the small details - central driving mirror bracket... ...and half doors!
  19. Right - back on it after a trip to France and marshaling at the British F1 GP! I tried a bit of clear resin to make the rear fog and reverse lights - I'd made the casing already, so made the 'lens' to fit inside. I thought I'd try a few details inside in the lens to see if it showed when painted (with clear red) - it actually worked quite well! I used a bit of silver paint inside the lens to help, especially with the reverse light. I'll add some screw details later... I had a back-up plan using some clear red reflectors cut up, but the printed clear worked well... ...although I did have some weird artifacting with some of the prints - I think what happened was that the first few layers stuck to the FEP film, not the plate - then it stuck, and then i was getting some refraction of the UVA light through the clear resin - no idea, but I managed to get a few pieces that worked for what I needed. I needed to find a way to fit my wheels - the bolt holes did not quite line up - I think the file was scaled slightly over the years, but I wanted something stronger anyway... Incidentally, the Tamiya kit is so well made that it even has the alternative suspension mounts that the 'real' car has - in this model the trailing arm (link arm?) is fitted in 'comfort' mode - the lower boss is for better handling. It is all to do with 'rear steer' on the de-dion tube, and this kit actually can be used to demonstrate the difference and why the 2 positions work - I'll make a video next time I make one... So I drew up some 'spacers' (I wanted a slightly wider track) which included the rear bub bolt and the front bearing grease cap. These would mount on the existing wheel bolts, and fit snuggly into my new alloys. I used my trusty metallic pens to colour these - quick and effective! Needed to finish one of the cages... ...and some more decals.
  20. Finished the wheels (or at least the main parts - need to add the air valves etc!) Printing the tyres was a pain - teied different angles etc, sometimes they would 'sag' as they printed due to the number of supports - still learning all that! Had a few flats! But once done, and cleaned off - I primed and sprayed with Tamiya Rubber Black (or tyre black - can't remember) - I am going to print a mask to spray 'AVON' on the tyres. I ended up using Alclad Chrome on the rims - but not to full 'shine' effect - just enough to glint a little bit. I did try the Spaz chrome you can see, but wasn't impressed - far more to do with prep. and not fiddling with the airbrush - alclad gave me a 'hint' of chrome over the top of the other.. . Nothing fixed or attached yet... Lots of small bits next - mirrors, fog/reverse lights mainly... Getting pretty close to assembling these parts to the cars and....finishing!!
  21. On a mission now, so I also drew up some other parts - the tiny ones like fog lights, rear view race mirrors etc - none of which are correct in the kit for what I need. I also drew up the '7' grill, which printed amazingly - years ago I had tried to resin cast the original wire one that came in one of the Tamiya kits (The VX powered JPE) as I needed more than one, but it was impossible - not now! I had to make another cooling fan for the radiator of the blue car - the yellow one consisted of part of a camera film case, carefully bent wire, carved fan blades etc etc - huge amount of labour. I drew up this one, made the fan separately so I could paint more easily,. I'm currently trying to get the wheel/tyre sizes spot on so I can manufacture those, and am about to start finishing and painting all those parts to assemble...
  22. Next job was the tillet seats - carbon fibre race seats which are only about 4mm thick in 1/1, and are very curvy. Now I had the tool to print them, I still had to create the 3D file - youtube solidworks tutorials to the rescure: Not perfect in terms of 3D drawing, but good enough for my use! UV curing: Had to get the scale right, and played around trying to get the shoulder 'bulge' correct - this had to fit in the model... Once I was happy with the size and shape I primed and sprayed black - although the seat was kevlar, so it would be covered with decal and also some fine flocked sheet to represent the fabric on the real thing... Fun shape to try and cover! Once I had added the kevlar, I thought it looked a bit too yellow, so I sprayed a few layers of Tamiya 'smoke' to darken it a little...much better. Quick coat of satin clear to seal it all up. Then the self-adhesive flocking material - bugger to get the shape right for the side pieces... Most of the rear and lower sides of the seat would not be seen, so I saved materials...still have a few bits to patch up, but overall - done! These seats were the biggest issue to figure out - its only taken 15 years lol
  23. OK - BACK TO 2019 - another 4 years have passed since I did a bit of work in NYC on the decals and dashboards....but then I had the brick wall of how to make some bits... In the mean time I had taken up model making again in the States. New skills and techniques mean that I just know I am not going to be able to resist going back and adding more detail to these kits - particularly when it comes to paint finished and washes/panel wash etc. But the biggest issue was the damn seats. I've kept up to date with the 'home' 3D printer market, but the FDM printers (the ones that squeeze molten plastic out of a tube - think toothpaste - and build up layers) simply don't have the resolution required. Cheap though - you can pick up a descent kit for £150 - good enough for learning and 'rough' stuff - although actually they are still pretty good now! - and clean...as soon as you start to use resin you have mess, smell, clear-up everytime etc etc.. Resin printers, that use a laser to 'set' UV sensitive resin in very thin layers, are a different level of cost! You are looking at £2-3k for a good, small model.... ....until now! There are now a handful of small printers available for less than £350. These use a UV emitting LCD screen to 'set' each layer - the resolution (thickness of the layers!) is way higher than any FDM printer - in fact you can even see the pixels of the 2K LCD screen being printed if you really zoom in. So last week I invested in an Anycubic Photon - a very popular Chinese printer you can get from Amazon. It produces stunning results.... It has a small print area, but for the size of parts I want to make, it is fine. DO NOT READ AHEAD IF YOU DON'T WANT TO BE TEMPTED - THE RESULTS YOU CAN GET FROM THIS PRINTER ARE AMAZING! Of course you have to draw the 3D cad files to print - I have access to Solidworks, which I have used in work - but I am not an expert user by any means - I have been drawing boxes and shelves in NYC - so the learning curve to draw a complex shape like a Tillet seat is large! I thought I'd start with some wheels and tyres - these models have ACB 10 tyres, which have to be the simplest tread to try and draw up as well - result!! So - I worked through some tutorials, and... So on to the first print - the printer comes with some resin to try - in this case, translucent green...out to Dads workshop.... BOOM! I was amazed at the results... Moved on to some grey resin... ...as I had the file for the central cast hub, I am able to reproduce those as well - lucky as I can't find the plastic sheet with 8 hubs machined onto it from 2003! So this is a 3 piece wheel: I have to play around with sizes to allow for paint clearance etc - but it works brilliantly. You can get different types of resin - so I have got some flexible resin to try and make 'real' tyres - I'll have to reduce the wall thickness right down, and make sure I can use pigment on the resin to make it black - as the flex resin is clear - but that is to come. I'l probably use the grey hard resin and spray for now... More updates tomorrow - I'm staying up waaaay too late every night working on this - but it is good to get the modelling MOJO back after 18 mths....
  24. Hi Robin - cheers mate - appreciate it - finally got to the next stage so about to start updating again - can I ask a big favour (that is not important in any way) - could you possibly edit your post above to not 'quote' the thread - I keep trying to edit your post and it doubles the page length for scrolling lol - hope you don't mind!! cheer
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